Nisyros Triantafyllada (Τριανταφυλλάδα Νισύρου)

Triantafyllada belongs to Nisyros in the Dodecanese, a rose cordial made from scented petals, sugar, lemon, and water, then served by the spoonful in a cold glass. It is not lemonade with a perfume added. The rose is the drink.

The whole recipe depends on the petals. They must be unsprayed, deeply fragrant roses, gathered in the cool of the morning, with the bitter white heels pinched away. Sugar draws out their color and scent before the syrup is cooked gently. If the roses smell faint in your hand, they will taste faint in the glass. Λίγα και καλά.

Serve it diluted with very cold water, usually 1 part syrup to 5 or 6 parts water, with ice if the day is heavy. I keep the syrup clear and simple, because that is the point: the island rose, saved for later, without pretending to be anything else.