
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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The legendary Monday supper of the Crescent City: velvety red kidney beans slow-simmered with smoky ham hock and spicy andouille, spooned over fluffy white rice and finished with bright green onions. This is the dish that fed generations of New Orleans families.
Every Monday for more than a century, the women of New Orleans set a pot of red beans to simmer on the back of the stove. Monday was washday, the day of scrubbing and wringing and hanging clothes to dry in the humid Louisiana air. The beans asked nothing of the cook except an occasional stir while she worked. By evening, the pot had transformed itself into supper.
This is not merely a recipe. It is a ritual, a piece of living history that connects you to the Creole cooks who perfected it. The technique requires patience but no particular skill. You brown the sausage, soften the trinity, add beans and liquid, and let time do the work. Three hours later, you have a pot of beans so creamy they coat every grain of rice, so deeply flavored you'll understand why Louis Armstrong signed his letters "Red beans and ricely yours."
The secret lives in the mashing. Toward the end of cooking, you take a wooden spoon and crush some beans against the pot. This releases their starch and creates the sauce, that silky, almost gravy-like consistency that separates a proper pot from mere bean soup. Without this step, you have dinner. With it, you have New Orleans.
Quantity
1 pound
picked over and rinsed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 pound
sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
2
diced
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
6
minced
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, or to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1 (about 1 pound)
Quantity
8 cups
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for serving
Quantity
4 cups
cooked according to package directions
Quantity
1/2 cup
sliced thin, for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried red kidney beanspicked over and rinsed | 1 pound |
| vegetable oil or bacon fat | 2 tablespoons |
| andouille sausagesliced into 1/2-inch rounds | 1 pound |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| celery stalksdiced | 2 |
| green bell pepperdiced | 1 large |
| garlic clovesminced | 6 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| dried thyme | 1 teaspoon |
| smoked paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon, or to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| smoked ham hock | 1 (about 1 pound) |
| chicken stock or water | 8 cups |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| hot sauce | 1 teaspoon, plus more for serving |
| long-grain white ricecooked according to package directions | 4 cups |
| green onionssliced thin, for serving | 1/2 cup |
Place the dried beans in a large bowl and cover with cold water by at least three inches. Let them soak overnight, or for a minimum of eight hours. The beans will double in size as they absorb water. Drain and rinse before cooking. If you forgot to soak, you can quick-soak by covering with water, bringing to a boil for two minutes, then letting sit covered for one hour.
Heat the oil or bacon fat in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the andouille slices in a single layer and cook without stirring for two to three minutes until the undersides develop deep brown spots. Flip and brown the other side. The sausage will render some of its smoky fat into the pot. Transfer the browned sausage to a plate and set aside.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper to the pot with the rendered fat. This is the holy trinity of Creole cooking, the aromatic base that gives New Orleans food its distinctive character. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften and the onion turns translucent, about eight to ten minutes. The vegetables should glisten and smell sweet.
Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about one minute. Stir in the bay leaves, thyme, smoked paprika, cayenne, and black pepper. Let the spices toast in the fat for thirty seconds, just until they release their oils and the kitchen fills with that unmistakable Creole perfume.
Add the drained beans, ham hock, and stock to the pot. The liquid should cover the beans by about two inches. If it doesn't, add water until it does. Bring to a boil, then immediately reduce to a gentle simmer. Aggressive boiling breaks beans apart before they soften properly.
Let the beans simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for two to two and a half hours. The beans should be completely tender and some will have begun to break down, creating a creamy sauce. Add the salt after the first hour of cooking. If the liquid level drops below the beans, add hot water to keep them covered.
Remove the ham hock and set aside to cool slightly. Using the back of a wooden spoon or a potato masher, smash about a quarter of the beans against the side of the pot. This releases starch and creates that signature creamy texture that distinguishes proper red beans from bean soup. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon.
Pull the meat from the ham hock, discarding the bone, skin, and fat. Shred the meat into bite-sized pieces and return it to the pot along with the reserved andouille. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce. Simmer for another fifteen to twenty minutes to let the flavors marry and the sausage warm through. Taste and adjust salt and cayenne.
Spoon the creamy red beans over mounds of hot white rice, making sure each portion gets plenty of andouille and ham. The beans should be thick enough to hold their shape on the plate but creamy enough to mingle with the rice. Scatter sliced green onions over the top and pass hot sauce at the table. This is Monday supper in New Orleans.
1 serving (about 380g)
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