
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Dark, golden mushrooms in a sauce of soured cream, mustard, and smoked paprika, spooned over rice on the kind of evening when you need dinner to do some of the work of looking after you.
October rain against the window. The clocks have gone back and the evenings arrive without warning. This is when stroganoff makes sense.
It came into British kitchens sometime in the seventies, probably via a magazine column or a dinner party, and it never left. The original wants beef, seared fast in a hot pan, but this version is mushrooms and it doesn't apologise for it. Good mushrooms, cooked properly, have a depth and a meatiness that needs no explanation. Chestnut mushrooms for their firmness. A portobello or two for their dark, almost smoky quality. A handful of wild ones if the market has them, but don't worry if it doesn't. We're only making dinner.
The sauce is soured cream loosened with a little mustard and smoked paprika. It's rich without being heavy, savoury without being complicated. The whole thing takes less than half an hour and most of that is standing at the hob with a glass of something, watching mushrooms turn golden in a hot pan. There are worse ways to spend a Tuesday evening.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago. "Mushrooms. Paprika. Soured cream. Rain." I come back to it every autumn, and every autumn it feels like the right food for the right evening.
Quantity
500g
chestnut, portobello, and wild if available, thickly sliced
Quantity
1 large
halved and thinly sliced
Quantity
2 cloves
finely sliced
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
a squeeze
Quantity
small bunch
roughly chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed mushroomschestnut, portobello, and wild if available, thickly sliced | 500g |
| onionhalved and thinly sliced | 1 large |
| garlicfinely sliced | 2 cloves |
| unsalted butter | 30g |
| olive oil | 1 tablespoon |
| sweet smoked paprika | 1 tablespoon |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| soured cream | 150ml |
| lemon juice | a squeeze |
| flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | small bunch |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| rice | to serve |
Put a wide, heavy pan over a high heat and add the olive oil. You want the pan properly hot before anything goes in. Cold mushrooms in a warm pan stew. Hot mushrooms in a hot pan caramelize. The difference is everything. Add the mushrooms in a single layer, working in batches if your pan isn't big enough. Don't crowd them. Don't stir them. Let them sit and colour, two or three minutes a side, until they're deep golden and the edges have gone almost crisp. They'll release their liquid first, then reabsorb it, then start to brown. Be patient. This is where the flavour lives.
Move the browned mushrooms to a plate. Drop the heat to medium and add the butter. When it foams, add the onion with a pinch of salt. Cook gently for eight to ten minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and translucent and has lost all its fight. Add the garlic for the last minute. It should smell sweet, not sharp. If it starts to colour, the heat is too high.
Stir the paprika into the onions and let it cook for thirty seconds or so, just enough for the heat to wake it up and the kitchen to smell warm and smoky. Return the mushrooms to the pan with any juices that have gathered on the plate. Stir the mustard and soured cream together in a small bowl, then add them to the pan. Let everything come together over a low heat. Don't let it boil or the cream will split and look miserable. A gentle simmer. Two minutes. That's all it needs.
Squeeze in a little lemon juice. Not much, just enough to cut through the richness and make the whole thing sing. Season with salt and black pepper. Taste it. Then taste it again. Scatter the parsley over the top and spoon it over rice. The rice should be hot, the bowls should be warm, and there should be enough for someone to have seconds without asking.
1 serving (about 280g)
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