Morgados do Algarve

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Candy thermometer
• •Food processor
• •Heavy-bottomed saucepan
• •Marble slab or clean work surface
• •Small paintbrushes for decorating
• •Toothpicks for detail work

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the doce de chila

   Start here because this needs time. Cut the chila squash into large chunks and boil in water until the flesh is completely tender and falls into threads, about 30 minutes. Drain well, then use a fork to pull the flesh into strands. Squeeze out as much water as possible. In a heavy pan, combine the squash strands with sugar, cinnamon, and lemon zest. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes thick and translucent, about 25 minutes. It should pull away from the sides of the pan. Remove the cinnamon stick and let cool completely.

   Doce de chila is essential to these morgados. You cannot substitute pumpkin or any other squash. The threads of chila give a texture nothing else replicates.
2. 2

   Prepare the ovos moles

   Combine the sugar and water in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil without stirring, then cook until it reaches 114°C (soft ball stage). Watch closely. The difference between soft ball and hard ball is a matter of seconds. While the syrup heats, beat the egg yolks until pale and thick. When the syrup reaches temperature, remove from heat and let the bubbles subside for 30 seconds. Pour the syrup in a thin stream into the yolks, beating constantly. Return the mixture to the pan and cook over very low heat, stirring without stopping, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon heavily and you can see the bottom of the pan when you drag the spoon through. This takes 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool completely. The ovos moles will thicken further as they cool.

   A candy thermometer is not optional here. Sugar points matter. The nuns who invented ovos moles didn't have thermometers, but they made this every day for decades. You and I need the thermometer.
3. 3

   Make the almond paste

   Grind the blanched almonds in a food processor until they become a fine flour, then continue processing until oils release and it becomes paste-like. In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water with lemon juice. Cook over medium heat until it reaches 116°C (firm ball stage). Remove from heat. Add the ground almonds all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until completely combined. Turn out onto a marble slab or clean counter dusted with powdered sugar. Knead while still warm until smooth and pliable, about 5 minutes. The paste should be soft enough to mold but hold its shape. Wrap in plastic and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

   The Algarve's almonds are sweeter than most. If your almonds taste bitter, add another tablespoon of sugar to the syrup.
4. 4

   Shape the morgados

   Take a piece of almond paste about the size of a walnut. Flatten it into a disc in your palm, making the center thinner than the edges. Place a small spoonful of ovos moles in the center, topped with a smaller amount of doce de chila. Fold the almond paste around the filling, sealing completely. Now shape into your chosen form: round for oranges, oval for lemons, elongated for fish, pear-shaped for pears. Work gently. The paste is forgiving but not infinitely so.

5. 5

   Paint and decorate

   Dilute food coloring with a few drops of water to create washes. Use a small brush to paint your morgados: yellow-orange with red blush for peaches, bright yellow for lemons, deep orange for oranges, green graduating to red for apples, silver-gray with detail lines for fish. Let each layer dry before adding the next. Press a whole clove into the top of fruit shapes for a stem. For fish, use a toothpick to create scale patterns before the paste sets completely.

6. 6

   Dry and store

   Place finished morgados on parchment-lined trays. Let them dry at room temperature for at least 4 hours or overnight. The exterior should feel dry to the touch while the inside remains soft and yielding. Dust lightly with powdered sugar before serving if desired. Store in a single layer in an airtight container at cool room temperature. They keep for up to two weeks.

Chef Tips

• •Make the doce de chila and ovos moles a day ahead. They need to be completely cold before filling, and the flavors improve overnight.
• •If you cannot find chila squash, look in Brazilian or Portuguese markets for 'gila' or 'chila.' Some specialty stores stock it canned. Spaghetti squash from a regular market works, though the threads will be slightly thicker.
• •The almond paste dries out quickly. Keep it wrapped when not actively shaping. If it becomes too stiff, knead in a few drops of water.
• •Traditional morgados are painted with food coloring, but Dona Emília told me her grandmother used beet juice for red and saffron for yellow. I've tried both ways. The old way tastes better, but the colors fade faster.
• •Don't overfill. The temptation is to stuff more ovos moles inside, but the almond shell will crack. A teaspoon of filling is enough.

Advance Preparation

• •Doce de chila can be made up to 1 week ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.
• •Ovos moles can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. They thicken when cold; let them warm slightly before filling.
• •Almond paste can be made 3 days ahead, wrapped tightly, and stored at room temperature.
• •Finished morgados keep for 2 weeks in an airtight container at cool room temperature. Do not refrigerate; the almond paste becomes hard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 80g)