
Chef Thomas
Apple Chutney
A spiced autumn chutney made from a glut of apples and a quiet afternoon, simmered down until the kitchen smells of October and the jars line up on the counter like a small, useful insurance policy.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A November mincemeat for the Christmas weeks ahead, dried fruit and suet and spices stirred together with a generous measure of brandy, then left in the cupboard to do its quiet, patient work.
Make this in November. Not December, when the lists have grown long and the patience has thinned. November, when the afternoons start going dark by four and the kitchen feels like the right place to be doing something with your hands.
Mincemeat is one of those small domestic acts that rewards you weeks later, when the mince pies are warm and someone reaches for a second one without thinking. There's nothing to it, really. You stir together a bowl of dried fruit, sugar, suet, spices, and brandy, and then you walk away. The cupboard does the rest. The fruit drinks the brandy, the sugar dissolves into the juices, the spices settle into the corners, and a month later you have something dark and glossy and faintly boozy that smells of Christmas the moment you lift the lid.
I wrote it down in the notebook the first year I made my own: "Better than the jar. Won't go back." That's still true. Shop-bought mincemeat is fine. Homemade mincemeat is the difference between fine and properly good, and the difference costs you about half an hour in November and the patience to wait. Patience pays.
A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. Use the dried fruit you like. Swap the brandy for rum or whisky if that's what's in the cupboard. Add a knob of stem ginger if you've got some. The proportions are forgiving and the result will still be unmistakably mincemeat. We're only making dinner. Or in this case, the small thing that makes dinner in six weeks' time feel like Christmas.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
200g
Quantity
200g
Quantity
100g
finely chopped
Quantity
100g
Quantity
1 large
peeled, cored and grated
Quantity
200g
beef or vegetarian
Quantity
200g
Quantity
1
zest and juice
Quantity
1
zest and juice
Quantity
50g
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
150ml, plus extra for topping up
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raisins | 200g |
| sultanas | 200g |
| currants | 200g |
| mixed peelfinely chopped | 100g |
| dried cranberries or sour cherries | 100g |
| Bramley applepeeled, cored and grated | 1 large |
| shredded suetbeef or vegetarian | 200g |
| dark muscovado sugar | 200g |
| unwaxed lemonzest and juice | 1 |
| unwaxed orangezest and juice | 1 |
| blanched almondsroughly chopped | 50g |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| ground mixed spice | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly grated nutmeg | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| brandy | 150ml, plus extra for topping up |
Tip the raisins, sultanas, currants, mixed peel, and dried cranberries into a large mixing bowl. Use the biggest bowl you have. This recipe makes more mess than you think it will. Add the grated apple straight onto the fruit, juice and all. The apple needs to go in raw and be coated quickly so it doesn't brown.
Scatter the suet over the fruit, then the muscovado sugar. Add the lemon and orange zest and their juice. The kitchen will start to smell of Christmas at this point, sticky, dark, citrus-bright. It's a good smell. Stir everything through with a wooden spoon, working from the bottom of the bowl upwards so nothing is left dry.
Add the chopped almonds, the cinnamon, mixed spice, nutmeg, cloves, and a pinch of salt. Stir again, properly this time. You're looking for an even distribution of everything: no pockets of dry sugar, no clumps of suet. The mixture should look glossy and uniformly dark.
Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave it in a cool place for twelve hours, or overnight. The fruit will swell and the sugar will begin to dissolve into the juices. The next day, pour in the brandy and stir it through. You should be able to smell it from across the room. If you can't, add a little more.
Spoon the mincemeat into clean, sterilised jars, pressing down firmly with the back of a spoon to remove any air pockets. Leave a small gap at the top of each jar. Seal, label with the date, and store somewhere cool and dark. A cupboard is fine. Wait at least two weeks before using. A month is better. The flavours need time to find each other.
1 serving (about 42g)
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