
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Chtapodi me Kritharaki (Χταπόδι με Κριθαράκι)
Aegean island octopus, tomato, red wine, and toasted kritharaki share one pot, so the pasta drinks the briny sauce and stays glossy instead of turning heavy.
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Politiko mussel pilaf from The City keeps its promise in one act: open the mussels, strain their liquor, and cook the rice in that briny stock with onion, pepper, dill, and olive oil.
Midopilafo Politiko is the mussel pilaf of Constantinople, I Poli, where the sea and rice sit in the same pot. It is not a tomato-heavy rice dish, and it is not a dry pilaf with mussels scattered on top. The rice cooks in the mussels' own liquor with onion, sweet pepper, black pepper, dill, and olive oil, so every grain tastes of the shellfish before you add anything else.
The one method that decides it is saving the liquor. Open the mussels briefly, strain the briny liquid through cloth, measure it, and use it as the cooking broth. If you throw that away, you have rice with mussels. Keep it, and you have midopilafo. Salt waits until the end, because mussels bring their own sea with them.
I make this when the fishmonger has clean, heavy mussels and there is no patience for a grand pot. Λίγα και καλά, a few things and good ones: good mussels, good oil, and rice that can drink without collapsing. It is weeknight food, yes, but the region is the dish's surname, and The City's table never confused plain with careless.
Politiko means from Poli, Constantinople, the city Greeks called simply The City. Midopilafo belongs to the Bosphorus shellfish table, where mussels were inexpensive and their liquor seasoned rice long before bottled stocks entered home kitchens. Versions of this pilaf traveled to Thessaloniki and Athens with Constantinopolitan Greek families, especially after the 1955 Istanbul pogrom and the 1964 expulsions.
Quantity
1.5kg
scrubbed and debearded
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
80ml
divided
Quantity
180g
finely chopped
Quantity
150g
finely diced
Quantity
60g
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
minced
Quantity
300g
rinsed and drained
Quantity
650ml
use mussel liquor first, top up only if needed
Quantity
1/2 tsp
plus more to finish
Quantity
1/4 tsp
Quantity
15g
chopped
Quantity
10g
chopped
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
Quantity
as needed
only after tasting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh live musselsscrubbed and debearded | 1.5kg |
| dry white wine or water | 120ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oildivided | 80ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 180g |
| sweet red or Florina pepperfinely diced | 150g |
| spring onionsthinly sliced | 60g |
| garlic cloveminced | 1 |
| medium-grain rice (Carolina)rinsed and drained | 300g |
| strained mussel liquor plus hot wateruse mussel liquor first, top up only if needed | 650ml |
| freshly ground black pepperplus more to finish | 1/2 tsp |
| ground allspice (bahari) | 1/4 tsp |
| fresh dillchopped | 15g |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 10g |
| lemoncut into wedges | 1 |
| fine sea salt (optional)only after tasting | as needed |
Rinse the mussels under cold running water, scrub the shells, and pull away the beards. Discard cracked shells and any open mussel that does not close when tapped. Fresh mussels should smell clean and sea-salty, never sour.
Put the mussels in a wide pot with the wine or water. Cover and cook over high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice, until the shells open. Lift the opened mussels into a bowl and discard any that stay shut. Strain the liquid left in the pot through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, then measure 650ml, topping up with hot water only if the mussels give you less. This liquid is the dish. Throw it away and you have rice with mussels, not midopilafo.
Remove most of the mussels from their shells, keeping 8 to 10 in the shell for the top of the pilaf. Cover them loosely so they stay moist. They will go back in at the end, because boiled mussels turn tight and sulky. No one needs that on a Tuesday.
Wipe out the pot. Add 60ml of the olive oil, the onion, red pepper, and spring onions, and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes until sweet and soft but not browned. Stir in the garlic for 30 seconds. Add the rice, black pepper, and allspice, and stir for 2 minutes until the grains look glossy.
Pour in the 650ml strained mussel liquor. Bring it to a steady simmer, then lower the heat, cover tightly, and cook for 14 to 16 minutes without stirring, until small holes show on the surface and the rice has absorbed the liquid. Do not salt yet. Mussels bring their own sea, and you can correct the pot later.
Take the pot off the heat. Fold in the shelled mussels, dill, parsley, and the remaining 20ml olive oil, then set the mussels in their shells on top. Cover the pot with a clean towel under the lid and let it rest for 10 minutes. Fluff gently with a fork, taste for salt, add more black pepper if it asks for it, and serve with lemon wedges.
1 serving (about 360g)
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