Mazamorra Cordobesa

Mazamorra Cordobesa belongs to Córdoba, in Andalucía, and it is older than the tomato. Before salmorejo turned red, this was the pale bowl: almonds, stale bread, garlic, vinegar, salt, and olive oil beaten into a thick cold soup, dense enough to hold the spoon for a moment before it settles.

What makes it mazamorra and not ajoblanco is the body. Ajoblanco is looser, drinkable if you want it that way. Mazamorra is thicker, more like a cold cream made from bread and almonds. The method that decides it is the oil: blend the almonds, bread, garlic, vinegar, and water first until smooth, then pour the olive oil in slowly while the machine runs. That is what makes it silky instead of greasy.

If you are far from Córdoba, use good blanched almonds, a sturdy white country bread with the crust removed, and a clean wine vinegar if you cannot get vinagre de Jerez, sherry vinegar. The flavour will be a little less nutty and sharp, but the dish will still stand. Chill it well, taste it cold, and finish with grapes and a thread of oil. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.