
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Mazamorra Cordobesa is Córdoba's white ancestor of salmorejo: almonds, bread, garlic, vinegar, and olive oil blended thick, colder and denser than ajoblanco, with grapes to finish.
Mazamorra Cordobesa belongs to Córdoba, in Andalucía, and it is older than the tomato. Before salmorejo turned red, this was the pale bowl: almonds, stale bread, garlic, vinegar, salt, and olive oil beaten into a thick cold soup, dense enough to hold the spoon for a moment before it settles.
What makes it mazamorra and not ajoblanco is the body. Ajoblanco is looser, drinkable if you want it that way. Mazamorra is thicker, more like a cold cream made from bread and almonds. The method that decides it is the oil: blend the almonds, bread, garlic, vinegar, and water first until smooth, then pour the olive oil in slowly while the machine runs. That is what makes it silky instead of greasy.
If you are far from Córdoba, use good blanched almonds, a sturdy white country bread with the crust removed, and a clean wine vinegar if you cannot get vinagre de Jerez, sherry vinegar. The flavour will be a little less nutty and sharp, but the dish will still stand. Chill it well, taste it cold, and finish with grapes and a thread of oil. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Mazamorra Cordobesa comes from the old Andalusian family of bread, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, and water soups, the same pre-tomato line that later gave Córdoba its salmorejo. Almonds tie it to the cooking of al-Andalus, where ground nuts and bread were used to thicken sauces and cold dishes long before tomatoes entered the southern larder. In Córdoba it remains the older white cousin: thicker than ajoblanco, poorer in ingredients than it looks, and rich because the oil and almonds are handled properly.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
150g
crust removed and torn
Quantity
1 small clove
germ removed
Quantity
350ml, plus more if needed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
120ml, plus more to finish
Quantity
8g, plus more to taste
Quantity
150g
chilled and halved
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| blanched almonds | 200g |
| day-old white country breadcrust removed and torn | 150g |
| garlicgerm removed | 1 small clove |
| cold water | 350ml, plus more if needed |
| vinagre de Jerez (sherry vinegar), or mild white wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| extra virgin olive oil | 120ml, plus more to finish |
| fine sea salt | 8g, plus more to taste |
| seedless green grapeschilled and halved | 150g |
Put the torn bread in a bowl with 250ml of the cold water and leave it for 10 minutes, until it has softened all the way through. Do not skip this. Dry bread makes a grainy mazamorra, and grainy is not rustic, it is unfinished.
Put the soaked bread and its water in a strong blender with the almonds, garlic, vinegar, salt, and the remaining 100ml cold water. Blend for 2 to 3 minutes, stopping once to scrape down the sides, until the mixture is as smooth as your machine can make it. It should already look thick, pale, and creamy.
With the blender running, pour in the olive oil slowly in a thin stream. This slow pour is the step that decides the dish: the oil joins the almond and bread into a smooth cream instead of sitting on top. If it is too thick for the blades, add cold water 1 tablespoon at a time, but keep it spoonable, not drinkable.
Cover and chill for at least 2 hours. Taste it cold, not warm from the blender, because the cold dulls salt and vinegar. Adjust with a little more salt or a few drops of vinegar until the almond tastes clean and the garlic stays in the background.
Spoon the mazamorra into shallow bowls. Scatter over the chilled halved grapes and finish each bowl with a thin thread of olive oil. Serve it very cold, with bread beside it if you like. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and it behaves.
1 serving (about 255g)
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