Mazamitla Blackberry Cheesecake (Pay de Queso)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •9-inch springform pan
• •Roasting pan for the water bath
• •Stand mixer or hand mixer
• •Small clay cazuela or heavy saucepan
• •Fine-mesh sieve for draining requeson

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the pan

   Heat the oven to 325F. Wrap the outside of a 9-inch springform pan with two layers of foil and set a kettle of water to heat. Grease the pan lightly and line the bottom with parchment. A pay de queso cracks when it is shocked by dry heat. The water bath keeps the custard gentle.

2. 2

   Make the crust

   Crush the galletas Maria until fine, like market sand, not gravel. Mix with melted butter, grated piloncillo, and salt. Press firmly into the bottom and slightly up the sides of the pan. Bake for 10 minutes, until it smells toasted and the edge turns light gold. Let it cool while you make the filling.

   Do not use graham crackers if you can find galletas Maria. The flavor is different. A substitution is a compromise, not an upgrade.
3. 3

   Blend the cheeses

   Beat the queso crema until smooth. Add the drained requeson and beat again until the mixture loosens. Requeson gives this pay its highland dairy character, lighter and a little grainier than a bakery cheesecake. Do not erase that texture completely. That is part of the dish.

4. 4

   Finish the filling

   Add the condensed milk, Mexican crema, eggs, cornstarch, lime juice, vanilla, and salt. Mix on low speed until smooth, scraping the bowl once or twice. Low speed matters. If you whip air into the filling, the pay rises, collapses, and cracks. No me vengas con atajos.

5. 5

   Bake gently

   Pour the filling over the cooled crust. Set the pan inside a roasting pan and pour hot water around it to come halfway up the sides. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, until the edges are set and the center still trembles like soft flan. Turn off the oven, crack the door, and leave the pay inside for 45 minutes. Patience is a technique.

6. 6

   Cook the zarzamora

   While the pay cools, combine 2 cups zarzamoras, sugar, lime juice, and lime zest in a small cazuela or saucepan. Cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring until the berries burst and the juices turn deep purple. Stir in the cornstarch slurry and cook 1 minute more, until glossy and thick enough to coat a spoon.

7. 7

   Chill and crown

   Cool the jam to room temperature. Spread it over the chilled pay and scatter the remaining 1 cup fresh zarzamoras on top. Refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Slice with a warm knife. The filling should be creamy, the crust firm, and the zarzamora bright enough to remind you this dessert belongs to Mazamitla.

Chef Tips

• •Drain the requeson in a fine sieve for at least 30 minutes. Watery requeson makes a loose filling and nobody wants a pay that weeps on the plate.
• •Use Mexican vanilla if you have it. It should smell warm and direct, not like perfume. Too much vanilla covers the zarzamora, and the berry is the point.
• •If fresh zarzamoras are out of season, use frozen blackberries from Mexico. Cook them straight from frozen and add 2 extra minutes. Bad fresh fruit is not more honorable than good frozen fruit.
• •Do not skip the water bath. A cracked pay still tastes good, yes, but the texture tells the truth about your patience.

Advance Preparation

• •The pay de queso should be baked the day before serving. Overnight chilling gives the cleanest slices and the best texture.
• •The zarzamora jam can be made up to 5 days ahead and refrigerated in a covered jar. Warm it slightly before spreading if it becomes too firm.
• •The galleta Maria crust can be baked 1 day ahead, covered, and kept at room temperature before filling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 225g)