
Chef Takumi
Chocolate Shu Cream (チョコレートシュークリーム, Chokorēto Shū Kurīmu)
Chocolate shu cream is judged twice: first by the hollow shell, then by the custard. Dry the dough properly, choose chocolate with backbone, and the little puff behaves.
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Crisp shells, bitter matcha custard, and soft tsubu-an sit together in one small puff. The secret is drying the dough well enough that steam can lift it hollow.
Ashu cream looks like pastry shop work. It isn't quite so fearsome. The shell is only flour cooked with water, butter, and egg, then trusted in a hot oven to do what it was built to do: puff itself hollow.
That hollow matters. Choux rises because the water in the dough turns to steam inside a thin skin of set starch and egg. Dry the dough over the heat before the eggs go in, and you make room for that steam without leaving the paste wet and heavy. Add the eggs until the dough falls from the spoon in a slow ribbon, and stop there. Too stiff and it won't rise well. Too loose and it spreads like a tired excuse.
The filling is where this becomes wafū, the way we bring a Western-style sweet into the grammar of Japanese taste. Matcha gives bitterness and scent, tsubu-an gives soft red bean sweetness, and the crisp shell keeps both honest. Use good matcha, bright green and fragrant, not the dull powder hiding at the back of the cupboard. Nothing hidden here. Bad tea only becomes louder in custard.
Pipe the cream only after the shells are completely cool. Warm pastry melts custard, softens the wall you worked to build, and turns the clean bite into a sagging one. Fill just before serving if you want the contrast at its best: crisp outside, cool green cream, red bean pressed along the seam. Leave it room on the plate. One small puff can say enough.
Shu cream, from the French chou a la creme, entered Japan through Western-style confectionery in the Meiji period and became a fixture of urban bakeries in the twentieth century. Matcha sweets grew especially visible as Kyoto tea culture met modern cafe and department-store pastry counters, where bitter powdered tea balanced milk, cream, and sugar. Pairing matcha cream with anko follows a much older Japanese habit: using sweet red bean to soften bitterness without burying it.
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
70g
cut into pieces
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
100g
sifted
Quantity
3
beaten, plus more only if needed
Quantity
250ml
for the custard
Quantity
3
Quantity
60g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
sifted
Quantity
20g
for the custard
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
180g
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| water | 120ml |
| whole milk | 60ml |
| unsalted buttercut into pieces | 70g |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| cake flour or low-protein all-purpose floursifted | 100g |
| large eggsbeaten, plus more only if needed | 3 |
| whole milkfor the custard | 250ml |
| large egg yolks | 3 |
| sugar | 60g |
| cornstarch | 20g |
| matchasifted | 1 tablespoon |
| unsalted butterfor the custard | 20g |
| vanilla extract (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| tsubu-an (sweet coarse red bean paste) | 180g |
| powdered sugar (optional) | for finishing |
Warm the 250ml milk until small bubbles gather at the edge. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and sifted matcha until smooth and deep green. Pour in the hot milk a little at a time while whisking, then return everything to the pan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the custard thickens and gives a slow, heavy bubble. This brief boil cooks the starch fully, so the custard sets cleanly instead of tasting chalky.
Take the custard off the heat and whisk in the 20g butter and vanilla, if using. Press it through a fine sieve into a shallow dish, then press plastic wrap directly on the surface and chill until cold. The wrap touches the custard so a skin cannot form, and the shallow dish cools it quickly enough to keep the matcha color clean.
Heat the oven to 200C. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a saucepan, combine the water, 60ml milk, 70g butter, salt, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Bring it to a full boil, not a shy simmer, so the butter is completely melted before the flour goes in. Add the sifted flour all at once and stir hard with a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains.
Keep the pan over medium heat and stir the dough for 2 to 3 minutes, pressing and turning it until it gathers into a smooth ball and a thin film forms on the bottom of the pan. This drying step is the hinge of choux. It drives off extra water and cooks the starch, so the eggs can be absorbed and the shell can rise hollow instead of baking up dense.
Move the hot dough to a bowl and stir for a minute to let the fiercest heat pass. Add the beaten eggs in four additions, mixing fully each time. Stop when the dough is glossy and falls from the spoon in a thick V-shaped ribbon. You may not need every drop of egg. The dough should hold its shape when piped, but relax just enough to smooth at the edges.
Transfer the dough to a piping bag fitted with a 1.2cm plain round tip. Pipe 12 mounds, each about 4cm wide, leaving space between them. Dip a finger in water and flatten any sharp peaks. Peaks burn before the shell is ready, and a smooth top expands more evenly.
Bake at 200C for 15 minutes, then reduce to 180C and bake 18 to 22 minutes more, until the shells are deep golden, light for their size, and firm all over. Do not open the oven early. The first heat sets the outside before the steam escapes, and the later heat dries the inside so the puff does not collapse.
Pierce the side of each shell with a skewer or the tip of a small knife, then return them to the turned-off oven with the door cracked for 10 minutes. Move them to a rack and cool completely. The small hole lets trapped moisture escape, and the gentle drying keeps the crisp shell from turning leathery.
Stir the tsubu-an to loosen it. Cut each cooled shell halfway open like a small clamshell, or make a larger piping hole underneath if you prefer a closed puff. Spoon or pipe a modest line of tsubu-an into each shell. Keep it restrained. The bean paste should speak beside the matcha, not bury it.
Whisk the chilled matcha custard until smooth, then transfer it to a piping bag. Pipe it over the anko and close the shells gently. Finish with a light dusting of powdered sugar if you like. Serve soon, while the shell still has its crisp bite and the cream is cold.
1 serving (about 75g)
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