Mani Samousades (Σαμουσάδες Μάνης)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •long thin Greek rolling pin or dowel, 60 to 80cm
• •large round metal tapsi, 36cm, or two rimmed baking trays
• •pastry brush
• •wide shallow pan for syruping
• •cooling rack set over a tray

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the syrup

   Put 350g sugar, 250ml water, the cinnamon stick and orange peel in a small saucepan. Bring to a steady boil, simmer for 5 minutes, then take it off the heat and stir in the honey and lemon juice. Let it cool completely. The pastry must be hot and the syrup cool, so the folded phyllo drinks cleanly without turning heavy.

2. 2

   Knead the dough

   Mix the flour and salt in a wide bowl. Rub in the 80ml olive oil with your fingertips until the flour feels sandy, then add the vinegar or tsipouro and most of the warm water. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, adding the last spoonfuls of water only if the dough feels dry. It should be smooth, supple and not sticky. Cover and rest for 45 minutes.

   If the dough pulls back when you roll it, it isn't being stubborn. It needs another 10 minutes under the towel.
3. 3

   Mix the filling

   Chop the toasted walnuts and almonds finely, but don't grind them to paste. Mix them with the 80g toasted sesame, breadcrumbs or paximadi, 40g sugar, cinnamon, cloves and orange zest. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the cooled syrup only if the filling is too loose to spoon. It should hold together lightly and still feel granular.

4. 4

   Roll the phyllo

   Heat the oven to 180C. Oil a large tapsi or two baking trays. Divide the rested dough into 9 balls. Dust the work surface and rolling pin with cornstarch or nisesste, then roll one ball into a very thin sheet, about 35 by 40cm. You should almost see your hand through it. Keep the sheets and unused dough covered so the edges don't dry and crack.

5. 5

   Fold the pastries

   Cut each sheet into 4 long strips. Brush one strip lightly with olive oil, place 1 tablespoon of filling near the lower corner, then fold corner over corner like a small flag until you have a neat triangle. Set it seam-side down in the oiled pan. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling, brushing the tops with olive oil as you go.

6. 6

   Bake until crisp

   Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan once, until the samousades are deep gold at the folds and dry to the touch. Pale phyllo won't hold its character under syrup. Give it color.

7. 7

   Syrup the samousades

   As soon as the pastries come from the oven, lower them in batches into the cool syrup. Turn once and leave each batch for 45 to 60 seconds, then lift out with a slotted spoon and set on a rack over a tray. Sprinkle with the remaining toasted sesame while the surface is still tacky.

8. 8

   Let them settle

   Leave the samousades at room temperature for at least 3 hours before serving, longer if you can. The syrup moves through the folds as they rest, and the filling becomes fragrant without losing its bite. Store in a tin or covered tray, never in the refrigerator.

Chef Tips

• •Buy nuts where turnover is fast, and smell the sesame before you use it. Rancid sesame will announce itself through the whole tray. Liga kai kala: fewer things, good ones.
• •Commercial phyllo will make a pleasant sweet, but it won't have the chew and pull of Mani samousades. If you use it on a tired day, don't pretend it is the village version. Just feed people honestly.
• •These are best after a night's rest and still good for 5 days at room temperature. Keep them loosely covered so the syrup doesn't make the surface sweaty.
• •Serve them with Greek coffee, tsipouro, or a small glass of cold water. They are rich, so the plate needs restraint, not decoration.

Advance Preparation

• •Make the syrup up to 2 days ahead and keep it covered at room temperature.
• •Toast and chop the nuts and sesame 1 day ahead, then keep them airtight.
• •The dough can rest overnight in the refrigerator; bring it to room temperature for 1 hour before rolling.
• •Finished samousades are better made 1 day ahead, which is why they belong so well to weddings and Christmas trays.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 47g)