
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Macedonian prasopita is winter leek pie at its plain best: sweet collapsed leeks, salty feta, dill, and crisp phyllo baked in a generous tapsi.
Prasopita belongs to northern Greece, especially Macedonia, where winter leeks are cheap, sweet, and worth building a whole pita around. This is not spanakopita with leeks added. The leek is the filling, softened until it turns gentle and almost buttery, then folded with feta, eggs, and dill under crisp phyllo.
The method that decides the pie is the sweating of the leeks. They must cook slowly before they ever meet the pastry, until their sharpness is gone and their water has cooked away. If you rush them, the filling tastes raw and the bottom phyllo goes soft. Give them time and they become sweet enough to carry the whole tray.
Use good feta, not too creamy, and a phyllo with some body if you can find it. In my notebook this is a weekday pita, the sort that feeds a table twice: warm from the oven the first day, room temperature the next. A recipe written down is a recipe saved.
Prasopita is part of the northern Greek pita tradition of Macedonia, Epirus, and Thrace, where winter greens, leeks, cheese, and flour turned into filling food for households with little meat. In Macedonia, leeks have long been a cold-season staple, and the pie is often richer than its fasting cousins because feta and eggs are added outside Lent. During nistisima periods, the same structure appears without dairy or eggs, with rice, herbs, and olive oil holding the filling together.
Quantity
450g
thawed if frozen
Quantity
1.4kg
trimmed, washed well, and thinly sliced
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
6
thinly sliced
Quantity
90ml
plus more for brushing
Quantity
200g
crumbled
Quantity
3 large
lightly beaten
Quantity
20g
chopped
Quantity
10g
chopped
Quantity
40g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| phyllo pastrythawed if frozen | 450g |
| leeks (prasa)trimmed, washed well, and thinly sliced | 1.4kg |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| spring onionsthinly sliced | 6 |
| extra virgin olive oilplus more for brushing | 90ml |
| fetacrumbled | 200g |
| eggslightly beaten | 3 large |
| fresh dillchopped | 20g |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped | 10g |
| fine semolina or short-grain rice | 40g |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
Split the leeks lengthwise, rinse between the layers, then slice them thinly. Grit hides where the green turns pale. If you don't wash there, the pie tells on you.
Warm 90ml olive oil in a wide pan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, spring onions, leeks, salt, and pepper, then cook for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring often, until the leeks collapse, turn glossy, and taste sweet rather than sharp. This is the step that decides the prasopita. The water must cook away before the filling goes into phyllo.
Spread the leek mixture on a tray and let it cool for 15 minutes. Stir in the semolina or rice, dill, parsley, feta, and beaten eggs. Taste before the eggs go in if you need to judge salt; feta varies, and a salty one needs no help.
Heat the oven to 180C. Oil a 34cm round metal tapsi or a 23 by 33cm baking dish. Lay in 6 sheets of phyllo, brushing each lightly with olive oil and letting the edges hang over the pan. Keep the unused phyllo covered with a barely damp towel so it stays flexible.
Spoon in the leek filling and spread it evenly, right to the edges. Fold the overhanging phyllo inward, then cover with the remaining sheets, brushing each with oil. Tuck the edges down into the sides of the pan, as if making the bed properly.
Score the top into 8 or 12 pieces with a sharp knife, cutting through the top layers but not dragging into the filling. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the top is deep gold, the edges are crisp, and the bottom sounds firm when you lift the pan and tap it.
Let the prasopita rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting. Hot filling runs. Warm filling settles, and the pieces come out clean with the leek sweetness where it belongs.
1 serving (about 250g)
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