
Chef Takumi
Candied Japanese Sweet Potatoes (大学芋, Daigakuimo)
Daigakuimo is simple student comfort: sweet potato cut stout, fried until the corners take color, then turned in a soy-sugar syrup that sets shiny instead of sticky.
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Lotus root is all clean cut and crisp bite here: thin coins warmed in sesame oil, glossed with soy and sweetness, and finished before the snap has a chance to leave.
Renkon announces itself when the knife goes through it: a white wheel pierced with clean holes, crisp enough to sound against the board. It is at its prime, shun, from autumn into winter, and in those months it needs little ceremony. Thin coins, sesame oil, soy, a little sweetness, and a pinprick of chili are enough.
Kinpira is not frantic cooking. We warm the slices first in oil so the surface dries and takes on a nutty scent, then let a small amount of seasoning reduce around them. The stockpot can stay quiet here. This dish belongs to oil, shōyu, mirin, and sugar, worked quickly until the lotus root shines.
The one detail is the cut. Two to three millimeters gives you enough surface for seasoning and enough body for the snap. Cut thicker and the soy sits outside. Cut thinner and the vegetable gives up its clean bite. Let the knife do the seasoning before the pan ever sees it.
This is everyday okazu, the side dish that gives rice something lively to answer, and it keeps beautifully for bentō or tomorrow's lunch. Nothing hidden. Good lotus root, briefly soaked, dried properly, and cooked without fuss will do almost all the work.
Kinpira takes its name from Kinpira Jōruri, an Edo-period puppet-theater cycle featuring the powerful warrior Sakata Kinpira, son of the folk hero Kintarō. The name became attached especially to thin-cut root vegetables such as gobō, or burdock root, fried and seasoned with soy sauce, sugar, and chili for a bold flavor and resilient bite. Renkon, lotus root, carries another Japanese association: its open holes made it an auspicious food for New Year, a way to see clearly into the year ahead.
Quantity
300g
trimmed, lightly peeled, and sliced into 2 to 3 mm coins
Quantity
2 cups
for soaking
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the soaking water
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 dried chili or 1/4 teaspoon
seeds removed and sliced if using dried chili
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| renkon (lotus root)trimmed, lightly peeled, and sliced into 2 to 3 mm coins | 300g |
| cold waterfor soaking | 2 cups |
| rice vinegar (optional)for the soaking water | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 tablespoon |
| dried red tōgarashi chili or ichimi tōgarashiseeds removed and sliced if using dried chili | 1 dried chili or 1/4 teaspoon |
| sake | 1 tablespoon |
| mirin | 1 tablespoon |
| koikuchi shōyu (standard Japanese soy sauce) | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted white sesame seeds | 2 teaspoons |
Trim the ends and peel the renkon lightly, then slice it into coins 2 to 3 mm thick. If the section is very wide, halve it lengthwise first so the pieces are easier to eat. Keep the slices even: the seasoning is brief, and even thickness lets every coin stay crisp while still taking on the soy.
Stir the rice vinegar into the cold water and slide in the slices for 5 minutes, swishing once. This washes away surface starch and keeps the flesh pale without stealing its clean sweetness. Drain, rinse quickly, and dry the slices well on a towel; wet renkon sheds water in the pan, and the oil cannot do its work.
Combine the sake, mirin, shōyu, and sugar in a small bowl, stirring until the sugar mostly dissolves. Have this ready before the pan is hot. Kinpira moves quickly, and measuring over the stove leaves the first slices cooking while the last ones wait.
Set a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame oil and tōgarashi rings, and warm just until the chili darkens a shade and the oil smells nutty, about 30 seconds. If the chili blackens, start over. Burned chili is not character, it is bitterness.
Add the drained renkon and toss to coat. Spread the slices into a mostly single layer and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring with saibashi, long cooking chopsticks, or a wooden spatula, until the cut edges turn slightly translucent and the slices click lightly against the pan. This first oiling helps the vegetable keep its bite once the seasoning goes in.
Pour in the seasoning, toss well, and let it bubble briskly for 2 to 3 minutes until the pan is almost dry and each slice has a soy-dark gloss. Stop while there is still a faint sheen, not a puddle. Cook longer and the sugar tightens; cook shorter and the flavor stays in the pan instead of on the renkon.
Take the pan off the heat, scatter in the sesame seeds, and toss once. Let the kinpira rest for 10 minutes before serving. It tastes best warm or at room temperature because the seasoning settles as it cools, and the bite stays clearer than if you rush it straight from the pan. Mound it small and leave the plate some quiet space.
1 serving (about 80g)
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