
Chef Graziella
Arista alla Fiorentina
The roast pork of Florence: bone-in loin studded with rosemary and garlic, nothing more. This is the dish that earned its name from a Byzantine bishop who declared it aristos, the best.
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The Sunday roast of central Italy, where a pork loin bronzes in a hot oven while potatoes beneath it drink up every drop of rendered fat and wine. This is family cooking at its most honest.
In Emilia-Romagna, we cure pork into prosciutto and mortadella. In Umbria, we roast it whole with wild fennel. In Rome, we braise it in milk until the sauce breaks into sweet curds. But across all of central Italy, the Sunday roast remains the same: a good piece of pork, some potatoes, rosemary, garlic, white wine, and a hot oven. That is all.
The genius of this dish is the potatoes. They roast beneath the meat, catching every drop of rendered fat and wine-scented juices. By the time the pork is done, those potatoes have become something extraordinary: crisp at the edges, creamy within, saturated with flavor you cannot achieve any other way. The meat is almost secondary. Almost.
This is not restaurant food. No chef would serve it because there is nothing to show off, no technique to impress. It is the cooking of home, of Sunday, of the grandmother who started it before church and let it finish while the family gathered. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
Arrosto di maiale con patate appears in Italian household cookbooks dating to the late 19th century, though the practice of roasting pork over potatoes predates written recipes by centuries. The dish represents the cucina povera tradition of central Italy, where nothing was wasted and the drippings from meat were considered as valuable as the meat itself.
Quantity
3 pounds
tied
Quantity
2 pounds
peeled and cut into 1-inch wedges
Quantity
4 tablespoons, divided
Quantity
4
peeled and lightly crushed
Quantity
4 sprigs
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork loin roasttied | 3 pounds |
| Yukon Gold potatoespeeled and cut into 1-inch wedges | 2 pounds |
| extra virgin olive oil | 4 tablespoons, divided |
| garlic clovespeeled and lightly crushed | 4 |
| fresh rosemary | 4 sprigs |
| dry white wine | 1 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Remove the pork loin from the refrigerator one hour before cooking. Cold meat roasts unevenly, the exterior overcooking before the center reaches temperature. Season the pork generously on all sides with salt and pepper. The salt needs time to penetrate.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, toss the potato wedges with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, half the crushed garlic cloves, two sprigs of rosemary, and a generous seasoning of salt and pepper. The potatoes must be coated completely.
Spread the seasoned potatoes in an even layer in a large roasting pan or heavy baking dish. They should not overlap significantly. Place a roasting rack over the potatoes, or if you have none, create space by pushing potatoes to the edges. The pork will rest above the potatoes, allowing drippings to fall.
Rub the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the pork loin. Press the remaining crushed garlic and rosemary sprigs onto the top of the roast. Place the pork on the rack above the potatoes, or settle it into the potato bed.
Place the pan in the hot oven. Roast for 20 minutes at 425°F. The high heat begins browning the exterior. After 20 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.
Pour the white wine into the bottom of the pan, over the potatoes. The wine will sizzle and steam. This is correct. The wine mingles with the drippings and seasons the potatoes as they finish cooking. Continue roasting.
Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the pork reads 140°F, approximately 50 to 60 minutes more after adding the wine. The total roasting time is about 1 hour and 15 minutes, but trust the thermometer, not the clock. The exterior should be golden brown. The potatoes should be tender when pierced and golden at the edges.
Transfer the pork to a cutting board and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Let it rest for 15 minutes. Do not skip this. The juices must redistribute or they will flood your cutting board instead of staying in the meat. Leave the potatoes in the turned-off oven with the door ajar to stay warm.
Remove the twine from the roast. Slice the pork into half-inch rounds. Arrange the slices on a warm platter, surrounded by the potatoes. Pour any accumulated juices from the cutting board over the meat. The potatoes need no sauce. They have been cooking in it for over an hour.
1 serving (about 300g)
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