
Chef Elsa
Anisbogen
Paper-thin anise wafers piped, dried overnight, baked pale gold, and bent over a rolling pin while still hot. Old-fashioned Austrian Weihnachtsbäckerei at its most elegant and rewarding.
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Three layers of Viennese Christmas baking: buttery Mürbteig, tart red currant jam, and a golden walnut meringue that shatters when you bite through it. Named after London, baked in my Salzburg kitchen, loved everywhere.
There's a recipe in my flour-stained notebook that I've circled three times in red ink. Londoner Schnitten. London Slices. I don't know who first gave these their name, but I know what it means to me. My grandmother Eva spent her whole adult life in England, a Kindertransport child who landed in Kent and never went back. Gretel Beer ended up in London. Two Viennese women baking Austrian pastries in English kitchens, and here was a recipe that already had one foot in each world. I grew up eating these every December in Eva's kitchen in Deal, cut into careful little rectangles and stacked on a plate next to the Vanillekipferl.
The construction is pure Viennese Konditorei thinking: three layers, each one doing a job. A buttery Mürbteig base that holds everything together, firm and crumbly and sweet. A thin, bright layer of Ribiselmarmelade (red currant jam) that cuts through the richness like a sharp remark at a polite dinner. And on top, a walnut meringue that bakes into something between a macaron and a praline, crunchy on the surface and chewy just underneath, with the warm earthiness of toasted walnuts running through it.
You bake these on a tray and cut them into small rectangles once they've cooled completely. Small, because they're rich. One or two with a cup of strong coffee is a full Jause. At Christmas, they belong on the cookie plate alongside Vanillekipferl and Linzer Augen, holding their own against every other Weihnachtsbäckerei on the table. Gretel always said the mark of a good Christmas baker is that her Schnitten are still crisp and perfect on the third day. These will be.
Viennese Konditoren had a long tradition of naming pastries after European cities, from Ischler Törtchen to Londoner Schnitten, reflecting the cosmopolitan reach of the Habsburg empire's culinary imagination. The recipe appears in Austrian baking collections from the early twentieth century, though the exact reason for the London name has been lost to time. What survives is the technique: a three-layer tray bake combining Mürbteig, fruit preserve, and nut meringue, a structure Viennese bakers perfected across dozens of Schnitten variations that remain central to Austrian Christmas baking.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
150g
cold, cut into small cubes
Quantity
75g
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 packet (8g)
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
half
zested
Quantity
200g
Quantity
4 large
Quantity
150g
Quantity
200g
finely ground
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
for the tin
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 250g |
| unsalted buttercold, cut into small cubes | 150g |
| powdered sugar (Staubzucker) | 75g |
| egg yolks | 2 |
| Vanillezucker | 1 packet (8g) |
| fine salt | pinch |
| lemonzested | half |
| Ribiselmarmelade (red currant jam) | 200g |
| egg whites | 4 large |
| caster sugar | 150g |
| walnutsfinely ground | 200g |
| Vanillezucker (for the meringue) | 1 teaspoon |
| butter and flour | for the tin |
Put the flour, cold butter cubes, powdered sugar, Vanillezucker, salt, and lemon zest into a large bowl. Rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs. You want flat little shards of butter disappearing into the flour, not one greasy mass. Add the two egg yolks and bring the dough together quickly with your hands. The moment it holds in a ball, stop. Mürbteig gets tough if you overwork it. Flatten the dough into a thick disc, wrap it in cling film, and put it in the fridge for thirty minutes. The butter needs to firm up again and the gluten needs to relax, or the base will shrink in the oven and fight you all afternoon.
Preheat your oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Butter a 30x20cm rectangular baking tin and dust it lightly with flour, tapping out the excess. Take the chilled dough and press it evenly across the bottom of the tin with your fingers. Don't roll it: Mürbteig this short is easier to press than to roll, and you'll get a more even result. Push it right into the corners and up the sides about one centimeter to create a small rim. This rim holds the jam and meringue in place. Prick the base all over with a fork so it doesn't puff up, then bake for 12 to 15 minutes until the surface looks dry and is just beginning to turn the palest gold at the edges. Pull it out and let it cool for ten minutes. The base should be set but not fully baked. It's going back in the oven.
Stir the Ribiselmarmelade to loosen it, then spread it in a thin, even layer over the partially baked base. Use the back of a spoon and work gently so you don't drag the shortcrust apart. The layer should be about three millimeters thick. Thin enough to let the walnut meringue be the star, thick enough that you taste its sharpness in every bite. That tartness is doing essential work here. Without it, the Schnitten would be nothing but sweet on sweet. The jam is the bridge between the buttery base and the nutty topping.
Lower your oven to 170°C (150°C fan). In a very clean bowl, whip the four egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold soft peaks. Add the caster sugar a tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. Take your time with this. Rushing the sugar in will knock the air out and you'll end up with a flat, dense topping instead of a light, crisp one. Once all the sugar is in and the meringue is thick, glossy, and holds stiff peaks, fold in the ground walnuts and the teaspoon of Vanillezucker with a large metal spoon. Fold gently, turning the bowl as you go, cutting through the centre and scooping up from the bottom. You want the nuts distributed evenly without deflating the whites.
Spoon the walnut meringue over the jam layer and spread it carefully to the edges with an offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Try to keep the thickness even. The meringue will set exactly as you shape it, so take a moment to get it right. Bake at 170°C for 22 to 25 minutes. The meringue should turn a warm golden brown on top and feel firm when you press it lightly with your fingertip. It will still have a slight give underneath, that's the chewy layer you want. If the surface starts browning too fast, lay a sheet of baking parchment loosely over the top for the last few minutes.
Let the Schnitten cool in the tin on a wire rack. This is the hardest part and I mean it: do not cut them warm. The meringue will crack unevenly, the jam will smear, and the base will crumble. Wait until they are completely cool, at least an hour, two is better. Then use a sharp knife dipped in hot water to cut them into small rectangles, about 4 by 6 centimeters. Wipe the blade between cuts. The slices should come out clean, showing all three layers in cross-section: golden base, ruby jam, pale nutty meringue. Dust the tops with a little powdered sugar if you like, though they're beautiful without it. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 45g)
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