Lombo de Porco com Castanhas

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy Dutch oven or clay pot with lid
• •Sharp paring knife for chestnuts
• •Large cutting board

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the chestnuts

   If using fresh chestnuts, score an X on the flat side of each one with a sharp knife. Bring a pot of water to a boil and add the chestnuts. Boil for 3 minutes. Remove a few at a time, keeping the rest in hot water, and peel away both the hard outer shell and the papery inner skin while still warm. This is tedious work. Do it with someone you love or with good music. The chestnuts must be completely peeled or the bitter inner skin will ruin the dish.

   The grandmothers in Bragança taught me this: keep the chestnuts in the hot water while you peel. The moment they cool, the inner skin clings like it's fighting for its life. Work in small batches.
2. 2

   Season the pork

   Pat the pork loin completely dry with paper towels. Rub it all over with the paprika, salt, and pepper. Let it sit at room temperature while you prepare the base. The paprika will bloom in the fat later, giving the sauce its characteristic golden-red color.

3. 3

   Render the toucinho

   In a heavy pot or Dutch oven, cook the cubed toucinho over medium heat until the fat renders and the edges turn golden and crispy, about 8 minutes. Remove the crispy pieces and set aside. Leave the rendered fat in the pot. This fat is the foundation of everything that follows.

4. 4

   Sear the pork

   Add the olive oil to the rendered fat. Increase heat to medium-high. When the fat shimmers, add the pork loin and sear on all sides until deeply golden, about 3 minutes per side. Don't rush this. The brown crust is flavor. Remove the pork and set aside.

5. 5

   Build the refogado

   Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the sliced onions to the pot and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, scraping up the brown bits from the pork. Let the onions soften and turn golden, about 12 minutes. Add the smashed garlic, bay leaves, and thyme in the last 2 minutes. The kitchen should smell like autumn in Trás-os-Montes.

   Those brown bits on the bottom of the pot? That's called fundo in Portuguese kitchens. It's concentrated flavor. Don't let it burn, but don't waste it either. The wine will lift it all into the sauce.
6. 6

   Deglaze and braise

   Pour in the white wine and let it bubble vigorously, scraping the bottom of the pot to release all the fond. Let the wine reduce by half, about 3 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer. Nestle the seared pork loin back into the pot. Scatter the peeled chestnuts around and between the meat. The liquid should come about halfway up the pork. Cover with a tight-fitting lid.

7. 7

   Slow braise

   Transfer the pot to a preheated 160°C (325°F) oven. Braise for 1 hour and 15 minutes, turning the pork once halfway through. The pork is done when it's tender but still sliceable, not falling apart. The chestnuts should be soft and have absorbed the braising liquid, turning golden and glossy. If the liquid reduces too much, add a splash of broth.

   In Trás-os-Montes, this would have cooked in a clay pot over embers. The oven does the same work. Low heat, patience, time. The chestnuts will drink the pork juices and become something magnificent.
8. 8

   Rest and serve

   Remove the pot from the oven. Let the pork rest in the braising liquid for 10 minutes. Transfer the loin to a cutting board and slice into thick medallions. Arrange on a warm serving platter. Spoon the chestnuts and onions around the meat. Taste the braising liquid and adjust seasoning. Spoon the sauce generously over everything. Scatter the reserved crispy toucinho and fresh parsley on top. Serve with roasted potatoes or crusty bread to soak up the sauce.

Chef Tips

• •If you can find them, use chestnuts from Trás-os-Montes or Padrela, which have DOP protection and a sweeter, denser flesh. Failing that, any fresh European chestnuts will work. Frozen peeled chestnuts save an hour of work with acceptable results.
• •The pork should be room temperature before searing. Cold meat steams instead of browning. Take it out of the refrigerator 30 minutes ahead.
• •Toucinho is cured Portuguese pork belly, similar to Italian pancetta but with a different cure. Thick-cut bacon or even guanciale works as a substitute, though purists in Bragança would give you a look.
• •Don't skip the resting time after braising. The meat continues to cook and reabsorbs juices. Cut it too soon and you lose all that moisture to the cutting board.
• •The leftovers, if there are any, are even better the next day. The chestnuts drink more sauce overnight. Reheat gently with a splash of broth.

Advance Preparation

• •Fresh chestnuts can be peeled up to a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator, covered with a damp towel.
• •The entire dish can be braised a day ahead and refrigerated. The flavors deepen overnight. Reheat gently in a 150°C oven until warmed through, about 30 minutes.
• •The toucinho can be rendered and crisped earlier in the day. Store at room temperature and scatter on just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 280g)