
Chef Dean
Avgolemono
A bowl of silken, lemony comfort from the Greek kitchen, where golden chicken broth meets a velvety cloud of egg and citrus. This is soup that heals what ails you, one spoonful at a time.
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Every comfort of a bubbling lasagna transformed into a weeknight-possible soup: deeply browned Italian sausage, crushed tomatoes, and tender pasta ribbons swimming in robust broth, each bowl crowned with a cloud of herbed ricotta.
Lasagna demands commitment. Hours of layering, waiting, then more waiting while it rests. This soup delivers the same satisfaction in forty-five minutes. The sausage, the tomatoes, the pasta, the ricotta: all present and accounted for. Nothing lost in translation.
The secret lives in browning. Most cooks rush this step, anxious to add liquid. Resist. That Italian sausage needs to develop a proper crust, releasing fond that will perfume your entire pot. The same patience applies to your aromatics. Onions should turn golden and sweet before tomatoes enter the conversation.
I first encountered this dish at a trattoria in Chicago's Little Italy, served by a grandmother who spoke no English but communicated everything through the pride in her presentation. She ladled it tableside, then spooned the ricotta mixture into the center with theatrical flourish. The ricotta melted slowly into the broth, creating ribbons of cream that transformed each spoonful. That's the technique you'll master here.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
casings removed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4
diced
Quantity
4
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 can (28 ounces)
Quantity
8 cups
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
8 ounces
broken into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
freshly grated, plus more for serving
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chiffonade
Quantity
1
finely grated
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
for garnish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Italian sausagecasings removed | 1 1/2 pounds |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| celery stalksdiced | 4 |
| garlic clovesminced | 4 |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| crushed San Marzano tomatoes | 1 can (28 ounces) |
| chicken stock | 8 cups |
| dried oregano | 2 teaspoons |
| dried basil | 1 teaspoon |
| crushed red pepper flakes | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| lasagna noodlesbroken into 2-inch pieces | 8 ounces |
| fresh baby spinach | 4 cups |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| whole-milk ricotta cheese | 1 cup |
| Parmesan cheesefreshly grated, plus more for serving | 1/2 cup |
| fresh basilchiffonade | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovefinely grated | 1 |
| nutmeg | pinch |
| fresh basil leaves (optional) | for garnish |
Heat a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When it shimmers, add the sausage, breaking it into rough crumbles with a wooden spoon. Cook undisturbed for three to four minutes to develop a proper crust on the bottom. Stir and continue cooking until deeply browned throughout, another five to six minutes. The sausage should have golden edges and the pot should be developing a dark fond on the bottom.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the diced onion and celery to the pot with the sausage. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns translucent and golden at the edges, about six minutes. The vegetables will absorb rendered fat and pick up flavor from the fond. Add the minced garlic and cook until fragrant, stirring constantly, about one minute. Garlic burns in seconds. Stay attentive.
Clear a space in the center of the pot and add the tomato paste directly to the hot surface. Let it sizzle and darken for sixty to ninety seconds, stirring only the paste. This concentrates the tomato flavor and removes the raw, tinny taste. Once it deepens to brick red and smells slightly caramelized, stir it into the vegetables and meat.
Pour in the crushed tomatoes, scraping up every bit of fond from the bottom of the pot. Add the chicken stock, oregano, dried basil, red pepper flakes, and bay leaves. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered for fifteen minutes, allowing flavors to meld and the broth to develop body.
Add the broken lasagna noodles directly to the simmering soup. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until the pasta is tender but retains pleasant resistance, eight to ten minutes depending on your noodles. The irregular shapes will cook unevenly, which is part of the charm. Taste a few pieces from different parts of the pot.
While the pasta cooks, stir together the ricotta, Parmesan, basil chiffonade, grated garlic, and nutmeg in a small bowl. Season with a pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. The mixture should be creamy and well combined, with visible flecks of green basil throughout. This is your finishing touch, the element that makes each bowl feel complete.
Remove the bay leaves. Add the spinach to the pot in handfuls, stirring after each addition until wilted. This takes about two minutes total. The greens will turn bright and tender almost instantly. Taste the broth and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The soup should be robust, savory, slightly acidic from the tomatoes.
Ladle the soup into deep bowls, ensuring each portion receives a generous share of sausage, pasta, and spinach. Drop a large spoonful of the herbed ricotta into the center of each bowl. It will sit like a cloud on the surface. Scatter additional Parmesan and a few fresh basil leaves over the top. Serve immediately with crusty bread for dunking.
1 serving (about 438g)
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