Kyllingefrikadeller med Dildsovs

There's a point in late spring when the dill in Danish gardens goes from cautious little fronds to something you can gather by the handful. That's when this dish makes the most sense. Not because you can't make it in February, you can, but because the dill is different in May. It smells sharper. Greener. It reminds you that the kitchen is starting to lighten up, and so is the food.

Kyllingefrikadeller are the weeknight frikadelle. Same technique, same oval shape, same golden crust from butter and a hot pan, but chicken instead of the traditional pork and veal mixture. They're lighter without trying to be virtuous about it. The sparkling water in the mixture, the same trick that makes classic frikadeller tender, does even more important work here, because chicken mince dries out faster than pork. Those tiny bubbles are what stand between you and a dry meatball.

The sauce is the heart of the dish. A simple roux thinned with good stock and a little cream, finished with enough fresh dill to turn it pale green. I want you to pay attention to when you add the dill: at the very end, off the heat. Dill that cooks too long goes grey and loses its character. Added at the last moment, it stays bright and tastes alive. You'll know when it's right. The whole bowl should smell like early summer, even if it's raining outside.