
Chef Elsa
Anisbogen
Paper-thin anise wafers piped, dried overnight, baked pale gold, and bent over a rolling pin while still hot. Old-fashioned Austrian Weihnachtsbäckerei at its most elegant and rewarding.
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Styrian pumpkin seeds ground into a sandy, crumbly crescent cookie dusted with powdered sugar and scattered with green seed flecks. Styria's proudest contribution to the Austrian Christmas tin.
Every Austrian knows Vanillekipferl. They're the crescents made with ground walnuts or almonds that show up on every Weihnachtsteller from November onward. But in Styria, in Austria's green southeast where pumpkin fields stretch to the horizon, they make their Kipferl with something better: Kürbiskerne, dark green pumpkin seeds with a richness that walnuts can only dream about.
Gretel always said that the regional variations of Austrian baking tell you everything about where a cook comes from. A Viennese baker reaches for almonds. A Tyrolean might use hazelnuts. A Styrian reaches for pumpkin seeds the way a Salzburger reaches for Mozartkugeln: it's instinct, it's identity, it's home. These Kürbiskernkipferl carry that Styrian pride in every bite. The ground seeds give the dough a pale green tinge that deepens when baked, and the flavor sits somewhere between toasted walnut and roasted chestnut, but nuttier, earthier, entirely its own thing.
The technique is the same patient method behind every good Kipferl: cold butter rubbed into flour, minimal handling, a proper chill before shaping. You shape them into crescents, bake them gently, and roll them through powdered sugar while they're still warm. The chopped pumpkin seeds pressed into the surface aren't just decoration. They tell anyone who sees the cookie tin exactly which corner of Austria these came from.
I started making these for the restaurant's Adventzeit menu because I wanted something on the plate that wasn't Viennese for once. Austrian baking is so much bigger than Vienna. These cookies are the proof.
The Kipferl shape dates back centuries in Austrian baking, with the most popular legend linking it to the crescent on the Ottoman flag, baked by Viennese bakers to celebrate the end of the Ottoman siege in 1683. Styria's claim on pumpkin seed cuisine is rooted in its protected designation of origin for Steirisches Kürbiskernöl, the region's prized dark green pumpkin seed oil, which has been pressed there since the 18th century. Kürbiskernkipferl are a relatively modern regional invention, emerging as Styrian bakers began substituting their local Kürbiskerne into traditional Kipferl recipes, turning a pan-Austrian cookie shape into something unmistakably Styrian.
Quantity
200g
cold and cubed
Quantity
100g
raw and unshelled
Quantity
80g, plus extra for rolling
Quantity
1 packet (8g)
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
260g
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
30g
finely chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttercold and cubed | 200g |
| Steirische Kürbiskerne (Styrian pumpkin seeds)raw and unshelled | 100g |
| powdered sugar | 80g, plus extra for rolling |
| Vanillezucker (vanilla sugar) | 1 packet (8g) |
| fine salt | pinch |
| plain flour | 260g |
| egg yolk | 1 large |
| Steirisches Kürbiskernöl (Styrian pumpkin seed oil) (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| Steirische Kürbiskerne (Styrian pumpkin seeds) for finishingfinely chopped | 30g |
Spread the 100g of pumpkin seeds in a single layer in a dry pan over medium-low heat. Shake the pan gently every thirty seconds. In about four minutes the seeds will start popping and the kitchen will smell green and nutty, almost like roasted chestnuts. Pull them off the heat immediately. Pumpkin seeds burn without warning, and burnt seeds taste bitter and oily. Let them cool completely, then grind them in a food processor until fine but not paste. You want a texture like coarse almond meal. A few larger pieces are fine. They'll give the finished cookie some bite.
In a large bowl, combine the flour, ground pumpkin seeds, powdered sugar, Vanillezucker, and salt. Toss the cold butter cubes through the dry mixture, then work everything together with your fingertips. Rub the butter into the flour as if you're making pastry, which you essentially are. When it looks like coarse breadcrumbs with no large butter chunks remaining, add the egg yolk and the pumpkin seed oil if you're using it. Bring the dough together gently. Don't knead. The less you handle it, the more tender the cookie. As soon as it forms a cohesive ball, stop.
Flatten the dough into a thick disc, wrap it tightly in cling film, and refrigerate for at least one hour. This rest is not a suggestion. The butter needs to firm up again after you worked it, and the flour needs time to hydrate evenly. Cold dough shapes cleanly. Room-temperature dough cracks and crumbles and you'll lose your patience with it by the tenth Kipferl.
Preheat your oven to 170°C (340°F). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Pull off a walnut-sized piece of dough, about 10g, and roll it between your palms into a small log roughly seven centimeters long, slightly thicker in the middle and tapered at the ends. Bend it gently into a crescent. Place each Kipferl on the prepared sheet with a centimeter of space between them. They don't spread much. Work quickly. If the dough starts warming up and getting sticky, put it back in the fridge for fifteen minutes.
Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, rotating the trays halfway through. The Kipferl are done when the bottoms turn light gold and the tops are still pale with just a hint of color at the edges. Do not overbake. These cookies carry over in heat and will continue to firm as they cool. If they look golden all over in the oven, they're already past their best. Pull them out while you still think they need another minute.
Let the Kipferl rest on the baking sheet for three minutes. They're incredibly fragile when hot. Sift powdered sugar generously onto a shallow plate. While the cookies are still warm but firm enough to handle, roll each one carefully through the powdered sugar. The warmth helps the sugar cling. Sprinkle the finely chopped pumpkin seeds over the sugared crescents, pressing them on lightly with your fingertips. The green flecks against white sugar is the whole visual identity of this cookie. Set them on a wire rack to cool completely. They'll be sandy, crumbly, and barely sweet, which is exactly right.
1 serving (about 15g)
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