
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Mykonos gives its onion pie sharp tyrovolia, green spring onions, and dill. Cook the onions down first, and the filling turns sweet, soft, and unmistakably Cycladic.
Kremmydopita Mykonou is Mykonos in a pan: onions, green spring onions, dill, and the island's sharp fresh tyrovolia folded into phyllo and baked until the top goes crisp and gold. The region is the dish's surname here. This isn't just any onion pie with cheese. It belongs to the Cyclades, where a few strong ingredients have always had to carry the table.
The filling must begin in the pan, not in the bowl. Cook the onions slowly until their sharpness collapses into sweetness, then let them cool before they meet the cheese and eggs. That is the whole trick. If you rush it, the pie tastes raw and hot in the throat. If you give it the time, it becomes gentle, salty, green, and full.
Tyrovolia is the old Mykonian cheese for this pie, soft, fresh, and tangy. If you can't find it, use fresh mizithra with a little feta for salt, but know what you are replacing. Λίγα και καλά: good onions, good cheese, good olive oil, and patience. I don't invent it. I find it, I test it, I write it down.
Kremmydopita is one of the best-known savory pies of Mykonos, tied to the island's local fresh cheese, tyrovolia, and to the spring onion season. Before Mykonos became shorthand for beaches and nightclubs, its home cooking relied on dairying, dry fields, onions, herbs, and preserved flavor from little land and hard wind. The pie records that older Cycladic kitchen, practical and exact in its own way.
Quantity
600g
thinly sliced
Quantity
250g
trimmed and sliced, white and green parts kept
Quantity
80ml
for cooking
Quantity
30ml
for brushing the phyllo
Quantity
450g
crumbled
Quantity
120g
crumbled
Quantity
3
beaten
Quantity
25g
chopped
Quantity
10g
chopped
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
450g
thawed if frozen
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| yellow onionsthinly sliced | 600g |
| spring onionstrimmed and sliced, white and green parts kept | 250g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilfor cooking | 80ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilfor brushing the phyllo | 30ml |
| tyrovolia Mykonou or fresh mizithracrumbled | 450g |
| fetacrumbled | 120g |
| large eggsbeaten | 3 |
| fresh dillchopped | 25g |
| fresh mint leaveschopped | 10g |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| country-style phyllo pastrythawed if frozen | 450g |
| sesame seeds (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Warm 80ml olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the yellow onions, spring onions, and salt, then cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are soft, glossy, and pale gold at the edges. This is the step that decides the pie. Raw onion stays sharp inside phyllo, but slow-cooked onion turns sweet and gentle, so the cheese can speak without a harsh bite.
Spread the cooked onions in a shallow bowl and let them cool for 15 minutes. If they go into the eggs hot, they make the filling heavy and uneven. Once warm rather than hot, stir in the tyrovolia, feta, eggs, dill, mint, and black pepper.
Heat the oven to 180C. Brush a 32cm round tapsi or a 23 by 33cm baking dish with olive oil. Lay a sheet of phyllo in the pan, letting the edges hang over, and brush it lightly with oil. Repeat with half the sheets, changing the angle as you go so the sides are covered.
Spoon the onion and cheese filling into the phyllo shell and spread it evenly, right to the corners. Fold the overhanging edges inward over the filling. Cover with the remaining phyllo sheets, brushing each one with oil, then tuck the edges down inside the pan.
Score the top into serving pieces with a sharp knife, cutting through the upper layers but not dragging through the filling. Scatter sesame seeds over the top if using. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the pie is deep gold, crisp at the edges, and the center feels set when pressed lightly.
Let the kremmydopita rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting. It should be warm, not scorching, so the cheese settles and the slices lift cleanly. Serve it with olives, tomato in season, or just a glass of chilled white wine.
1 serving (about 220g)
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