
Chef Dimitra
Chios Nerantzi Glyko Koutaliou (Νεράντζι Γλυκό Κουταλιού)
Chios bitter orange peel rolled into tight coils, blanched through clean waters, then preserved in a clear fragrant syrup for the spoon-sweet tray.
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Milos makes koufeto for weddings: white pumpkin slowly candied in thyme honey with blanched almonds, until the pieces turn clear at the edges and the syrup shines thick in the spoon.
Koufeto Milou is Milos's wedding spoon sweet: white pumpkin slowly candied in honey with blanched almonds, served by the spoon to bless a couple with sweetness and plenty. It looks modest, but it belongs to the Cycladic celebration table. The region is the dish's surname, and this one carries Milos in its honey and in the pale pumpkin that turns clear in the pot.
The whole dish depends on a quiet simmer. Cut the pumpkin evenly and let the honey loosen over low heat; the pieces should turn glassy around the edges before they become soft. Boil it hard and you've made pumpkin jam with almonds, not koufeto. We want the spoon to catch separate pieces in a thick amber syrup.
I keep this one plain. No perfume chasing the pumpkin around the pan: a strip of lemon peel, a little juice, and the almonds are enough. One notebook version from Milos had only three words in the margin: slow, clear, wedding. That is a good recipe when you know how to read it.
Koufeto is the traditional wedding sweet of Milos in the Cyclades, made from white pumpkin, honey, and almonds rather than the sugar-coated almonds that the word koufeta usually means elsewhere in Greece. The ingredients carry a plain blessing: honey for sweetness, almonds for prosperity and fertility, and pumpkin for abundance in a dry island kitchen. It is still served at engagements and weddings, often by the spoon from small glass dishes.
Quantity
1kg
peeled, seeded, cut into 1.5cm cubes or short batons
Quantity
650g
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
220g
Quantity
2 wide strips
yellow part only
Quantity
45ml
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| white pumpkin (aspri kolokytha)peeled, seeded, cut into 1.5cm cubes or short batons | 1kg |
| Greek thyme honey | 650g |
| water | 120ml |
| whole blanched almonds | 220g |
| lemon peelyellow part only | 2 wide strips |
| fresh lemon juice | 45ml |
Peel and seed the white pumpkin, then cut the flesh into even 1.5cm cubes or short batons. Keep the pieces the same size so they candy together; small scraps will soften before the larger pieces turn glassy. If the pumpkin is very wet, spread it on a clean towel for 15 minutes while you prepare the pot.
Put the honey, water, lemon peel, and 30ml of the lemon juice in a wide heavy pot. Warm over low heat, stirring just until the honey flows easily and the syrup looks clear. Don't rush this first heat. Honey catches quickly at the bottom, and burnt honey gives the whole sweet a bitter edge.
Add the pumpkin and turn it gently through the syrup. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 45 to 55 minutes, shaking the pot now and then and turning the pieces with a spoon only when needed. The syrup will look thin at first because the pumpkin gives out water. Let it go slowly until the pieces become translucent at the edges and hold their shape.
Add the blanched almonds and the remaining 15ml lemon juice. Continue simmering for 10 to 15 minutes, until the almonds are glossy and the syrup drops from the spoon in a slow thread. If you use a thermometer, stop around 104C. Without one, put a teaspoon of syrup on a cold plate; it should thicken after a minute but still flow.
Take the pot off the heat and let the koufeto settle for 10 minutes. Remove the lemon peel, then spoon the pumpkin, almonds, and syrup into warm sterilized jars. Cover and cool completely. It is good the same day, but better after one night, when the pumpkin has taken the honey all the way through.
Serve at room temperature in small glass dishes, one or two spoonfuls per person, with cold water or Greek coffee. The pumpkin should be glassy and tender, not collapsed, and the almonds should sit pale and clean in the honey.
1 serving (about 65g)
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