
Chef Dimitra
Asia Minor Ekmek Kataifi (Εκμέκ Κανταΐφι)
Asia Minor ekmek kataifi is built in three clear layers: crisp syruped kataifi, thick semolina custard, and cold kaimaki cream under pistachios.
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Thessaloniki's Kopenhagi is almond sponge hidden between buttered phyllo, baked until gold, then soaked with lemon syrup for the city's old celebration table.
Kopenhagi belongs to Thessaloniki, a city sweet with a Danish name and a very Greek heart: buttered phyllo above and below, almond sponge in the middle, lemon syrup poured over the hot tray. It is not baklava. It is not ravani. It sits between them, crisp at the edges, tender inside, grand enough for a name day or a holiday table.
The whole sweet depends on the sponge. Beat the yolks until pale, fold the whites gently, and don't crush the air you just made. That lift is what keeps the almond layer soft under the phyllo after the syrup goes in. Heavy batter gives you a wet brick, and Thessaloniki has enough stone already.
Use good butter, fresh almonds, and phyllo that hasn't dried into paper. Λίγα και καλά, a few things and good ones. I don't invent it. I find it, I test it, I write it down, because a tray like this should not survive only in the hands of one old zacharoplasteio.
Kopenhagi is associated with Thessaloniki's urban pastry tradition and is commonly linked to the visit of Denmark's Prince George, later King George I of Greece, whose Danish origin gave the sweet its name. The form reflects the city's Ottoman and Balkan pastry inheritance: phyllo, nuts, spice, and syrup, but with a cake-like almond layer that separates it from baklava. It remains a northern Greek celebration sweet, especially tied to old Thessaloniki pastry shops and home holiday tables.
Quantity
450g
thawed
Quantity
220g
melted and cooled slightly
Quantity
5
separated
Quantity
180g
Quantity
180g
finely ground
Quantity
80g
Quantity
70g
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 lemon
finely grated
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
600g
Quantity
450ml
Quantity
1 strip
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| phyllo pastrythawed | 450g |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled slightly | 220g |
| large eggsseparated | 5 |
| granulated sugar | 180g |
| blanched almondsfinely ground | 180g |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 80g |
| plain flour | 70g |
| baking powder | 2 teaspoons |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| brandy | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | 1 lemon |
| fine sea salt | 1 pinch |
| granulated sugar, for the syrup | 600g |
| water, for the syrup | 450ml |
| lemon peel, for the syrup | 1 strip |
| lemon juice, for the syrup | 1 tablespoon |
Put the syrup sugar, water, lemon peel, and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 7 minutes until clear and slightly heavy on the spoon. Take it off the heat and let it cool completely. Kopenhagi needs cold syrup over hot pastry, so the phyllo drinks without collapsing.
Heat the oven to 175C. Butter a 30 by 22cm baking pan. Keep the phyllo covered with a barely damp towel while you work, because dry phyllo cracks before it reaches the tray.
Stir together the ground almonds, breadcrumbs, flour, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves, and salt. The almonds should be fine but not oily. If they turn to paste, the sponge bakes heavy.
Beat the egg yolks with the 180g sugar until pale and thick, about 4 minutes. Mix in the vanilla, brandy, and lemon zest. Fold in the almond mixture until no dry patches remain.
Beat the egg whites to soft peaks. Fold one third into the almond batter to loosen it, then fold in the rest gently. This is the step that decides the cake: the sponge must stay light enough to lift between the buttered phyllo, not sink into a dense nut slab.
Lay 8 sheets of phyllo in the pan, brushing each sheet with melted butter before adding the next. Let the edges climb the sides a little. Spoon in the almond sponge and smooth it without pressing hard.
Cover with another 8 to 10 buttered phyllo sheets. Tuck the edges down neatly. Score the top into diamonds or squares with a sharp knife, cutting through the top phyllo but not dragging through the soft filling.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is deep gold and the center feels set when lightly pressed. If the top colors too fast, lay a sheet of parchment loosely over it for the last 10 minutes.
As soon as the Kopenhagi comes from the oven, pour the cold syrup slowly over the hot pastry, especially along the scored lines and edges. Let it stand at least 2 hours before cutting clean pieces. It should be glossy, soaked through, and still crisp at the top edge.
1 serving (about 190g)
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