
Chef Dean
Antipasto Tortellini Salad
Plump cheese tortellini tumbled with the greatest hits of the Italian deli counter, all glossed in a garlicky herb vinaigrette that improves as it sits. This is the potluck dish that comes home empty.
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Sturdy Tuscan kale transformed into silk through salt and muscle, dressed in a punchy lemon-anchovy Caesar, crowned with shatteringly crisp spiced chickpeas that deliver the crunch croutons never could.
Caesar salad belongs to America now, regardless of its Tijuana birth certificate. This version pushes it further into California territory by swapping romaine for Tuscan kale and croutons for spiced, oven-crisped chickpeas. The result is a salad that travels well, holds up at a potluck, and delivers enough protein to stand as a meal.
The secret to kale Caesar lives in three techniques. First, you must massage the leaves with salt until they surrender their fibrous resistance and turn silky. Skip this step and you'll be gnawing on something that belongs in a compost bin. Second, the dressing requires proper emulsification. There's no mayonnaise hiding here. You'll build the sauce from scratch, watching oil transform into something creamy and lustrous through the alchemy of whisking. Third, those chickpeas need to be bone-dry before they hit the oven. Moisture steams. Dry chickpeas shatter.
I've served this salad at summer gatherings where it sat out for an hour and still had better texture than any romaine could manage after ten minutes. Kale's sturdiness is a gift for anyone who cooks ahead. The dressing actually improves the leaves as they rest together, softening them further while the flavors penetrate.
Quantity
1 large bunch (about 10 ounces)
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for massaging
Quantity
1 can (15 ounces)
drained and rinsed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for chickpeas
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon
for chickpeas
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
3 tablespoons (about 1 1/2 lemons)
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
4
minced to a paste
Quantity
2
grated on a microplane
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
freshly grated, plus more for serving
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly cracked
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Tuscan kale (lacinato/dinosaur kale) | 1 large bunch (about 10 ounces) |
| kosher saltfor massaging | 1/2 teaspoon |
| chickpeasdrained and rinsed | 1 can (15 ounces) |
| extra-virgin olive oilfor chickpeas | 2 tablespoons |
| smoked paprika | 1/2 teaspoon |
| garlic powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| kosher saltfor chickpeas | 3/4 teaspoon |
| large egg yolksat room temperature | 2 |
| fresh lemon juice | 3 tablespoons (about 1 1/2 lemons) |
| Dijon mustard | 2 teaspoons |
| anchovy filletsminced to a paste | 4 |
| garlic clovesgrated on a microplane | 2 |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3/4 cup |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated, plus more for serving | 1/2 cup |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| lemon wedges (optional) | for serving |
Preheat your oven to 400°F. Spread the drained chickpeas on a clean kitchen towel and roll them gently to dry thoroughly. Moisture is the enemy of crispness. The skins may slip off some chickpeas as you roll. That's fine. Let them go. Skinless chickpeas crisp even better.
Transfer dried chickpeas to a rimmed baking sheet. Toss with two tablespoons olive oil, smoked paprika, garlic powder, cayenne, and three-quarters teaspoon salt. Spread in a single layer with space between each chickpea. Roast for 30 to 35 minutes, shaking the pan every ten minutes, until deeply golden and crunchy throughout. They should rattle when you shake the pan. Let them cool on the pan. They'll crisp further as they sit.
While chickpeas roast, hold each kale stem at the base. Grip the stem firmly with one hand and slide your other hand up the length, stripping the leaves away. Discard the woody stems. Stack the leaves, roll them into a tight cigar, and slice crosswise into half-inch ribbons. You want pieces small enough to eat gracefully but substantial enough to hold the dressing.
Place the sliced kale in your largest bowl. Sprinkle with half a teaspoon of salt. Now get your hands in there. Squeeze, scrunch, and massage the leaves as if kneading bread, working the salt into every surface. Continue for two to three minutes. The kale will transform before your eyes, changing from stiff and pale to silky, deep green, and reduced by nearly half in volume. This is not optional. Raw kale without massage is an assault on the jaw.
In a medium bowl, combine the egg yolks, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, anchovy paste, and grated garlic. Whisk vigorously until completely smooth and slightly thickened, about thirty seconds. This is your emulsion base. The lecithin in the yolks, the mucilage in the mustard, and the acid in the lemon juice will all work together to hold the oil in suspension. Let the bowl rest on a damp kitchen towel to keep it steady for the next step.
Begin adding the olive oil in a thin, steady stream while whisking constantly. Start with drops. Literally drops. The first tablespoon is the most critical. If you add oil too fast before the emulsion establishes, you'll end up with a broken, greasy mess. Once you've incorporated about a quarter cup and the mixture looks creamy and thick, you can pour slightly faster. Continue until all the oil is incorporated and you have a glossy, pale yellow dressing that clings to the whisk.
Fold in the grated Parmesan and black pepper. Taste and adjust salt. The anchovies and cheese bring salinity, so you may need none. The dressing should be assertive, bright with lemon, savory from the anchovies, and rich from the cheese. It will mellow slightly when tossed with the kale.
Add about half the dressing to the massaged kale. Toss thoroughly with your hands or tongs, coating every ribbon. Add more dressing as needed. Kale is sturdy and can handle more dressing than tender lettuces. You want each leaf glistening but not swimming. Let the dressed salad rest for five minutes at room temperature. Unlike delicate greens, kale improves with a brief rest as the dressing softens the leaves further and the flavors meld.
Divide the dressed kale among plates or pile it into a large serving bowl. Scatter the crispy chickpeas generously over the top. Add them at the last moment to preserve their crunch. Shower with additional Parmesan shavings and offer lemon wedges alongside. Serve immediately after adding the chickpeas.
1 serving (about 384g)
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