
Chef Elsa
Anisbogen
Paper-thin anise wafers piped, dried overnight, baked pale gold, and bent over a rolling pin while still hot. Old-fashioned Austrian Weihnachtsbäckerei at its most elegant and rewarding.
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Hazelnut shortcrust rounds from the emperor's summer retreat, sandwiched with chocolate buttercream, bathed in dark chocolate glaze, and finished with a single bright pistachio.
Every summer, Gretel and my grandmother Eva took me to the Salzkammergut. We'd stop in Bad Ischl on the way to the lakes, and Gretel would steer us straight to Konditorei Zauner on the Pfarrgasse. I was maybe eight the first time I tasted an Ischler Törtchen there. Two dark, crumbly rounds of nut shortcrust with chocolate cream between them, the whole thing wrapped in a thin shell of dark chocolate that cracked when you bit through it. A single pistachio sat on top like a jewel. I remember thinking it was the most serious cookie I'd ever eaten.
Ischler Törtchen are not casual baking. They belong to the world of Austrian Konditorei, where a cookie is expected to have the same precision and layered complexity as a Torte, just in miniature. The dough is rich with ground hazelnuts and butter, barely held together, the kind of dough that crumbles if you look at it wrong but melts on your tongue. The filling is a proper chocolate buttercream, not too sweet, dense enough to hold the two halves together. And the chocolate glaze is thin, glossy, and snaps cleanly.
They take time. I won't pretend otherwise. You make the dough, chill it, roll it, cut it, bake it, fill it, chill it again, then glaze it. But each step is simple on its own, and the result is something that makes people go quiet when they taste it. That's the Konditorei tradition at work. Simple ingredients, careful technique, and the patience to let each layer do its job.
Ischler Törtchen take their name from Bad Ischl, the spa town in Upper Austria's Salzkammergut where Emperor Franz Josef I spent his summers for over sixty years. Konditorei Zauner, founded in 1832, is credited with creating the recipe, and they've guarded it closely ever since. The town's position as the imperial summer capital meant its Konditorei culture developed to satisfy Habsburg tastes, producing confections with a refinement that rivaled anything in Vienna itself.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
100g
lightly toasted
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
half
zested
Quantity
150g
cold and cubed
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
4 tablespoons
sieved
Quantity
100g
softened
Quantity
100g
Quantity
100g
melted and cooled
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
200g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
about 20
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 200g |
| ground hazelnutslightly toasted | 100g |
| icing sugar (for dough) | 80g |
| vanilla sugar (Vanillezucker) | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | pinch |
| lemonzested | half |
| unsalted butter (for dough)cold and cubed | 150g |
| egg yolks | 2 large |
| apricot jam (Marillenmarmelade)sieved | 4 tablespoons |
| unsalted butter (for filling)softened | 100g |
| icing sugar (for filling) | 100g |
| dark chocolate, 70% (for filling)melted and cooled | 100g |
| cocoa powder | 1 tablespoon |
| rum | 1 tablespoon |
| dark chocolate, 60-70% (for glaze) | 200g |
| unsalted butter (for glaze) | 20g |
| whole shelled pistachios | about 20 |
Whisk together the flour, ground hazelnuts, icing sugar, Vanillezucker, salt, and lemon zest in a large bowl. Add the cold cubed butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Work quickly. The butter must stay cold or the dough will turn greasy instead of sandy. Add the egg yolks and bring everything together into a smooth dough. Don't knead it. Press it together just until it holds, then flatten into a disc.
Wrap the disc tightly in cling film and refrigerate for at least one hour. This isn't a suggestion. The butter needs to firm up again so the dough holds its shape when you roll and cut it. If you skip this, the rounds will spread in the oven and lose their clean edges. Patience now saves frustration later.
Preheat your oven to 170°C (340°F). Line two baking sheets with parchment. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface to about four millimeters thick. If it cracks at the edges, let it warm up for two minutes and try again. Cut rounds with a 4-5cm fluted cutter. You need an even number since every Törtchen is two halves. Gather and gently re-roll the scraps once. Place the rounds on the prepared sheets with a little space between them. They don't spread much, but they need air.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Watch them carefully. You want a pale golden color, not brown. These rounds are thin and the hazelnuts in the dough mean they go from done to overdone very quickly. They'll feel soft when you take them out. That's correct. They firm up as they cool. Let them rest on the baking sheet for five minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Handle them gently. This is a fragile, sandy dough and it knows it.
Beat the softened butter and icing sugar together until light and fluffy, about three minutes with a hand mixer. Add the melted and cooled chocolate, cocoa powder, and rum. Beat until smooth and uniform. The filling should be spreadable but firm enough to hold its shape between two cookies. If it's too soft, refrigerate it for fifteen minutes. Taste it. It should be deeply chocolatey with a hint of rum warmth, not sweet enough to make your teeth ache.
Match your cooled rounds into pairs of similar size. Spread a thin layer of sieved apricot jam on the flat side of one round from each pair. The jam is the secret architecture of this cookie. Its tartness cuts through the chocolate and keeps the sweetness honest. Pipe or spread a generous layer of chocolate buttercream on top of the jam, then press the second round gently on top, flat side down. Don't squeeze. Let the filling find its edges naturally. Place the assembled Törtchen on a wire rack set over a tray and refrigerate for thirty minutes until the filling is firm.
Chop the dark chocolate finely and melt it with the butter in a heatproof bowl over barely simmering water. Stir until smooth and glossy. Remove from the heat and let it cool for five minutes. You want it fluid enough to coat the Törtchen in a thin, even layer, but not so hot that it melts the buttercream inside. Dip your fingertip in. It should feel warm, not hot.
Working one at a time, place a chilled Törtchen on a fork and hold it over the bowl of melted chocolate. Spoon the glaze over the top and sides, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Use as few strokes as possible. Every extra touch dulls the finish. Set each glazed Törtchen back on the wire rack. While the chocolate is still wet, place a single pistachio on the center of each one. Press it in just enough that it holds. Let the glaze set completely at room temperature, about thirty minutes. The finished surface should be smooth and glossy, dark chocolate catching the light.
1 serving (about 55g)
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