
Chef Graziella
Cavolo Cappuccio in Insalata
The cabbage slaw of the Alto Adige, where Austrian traditions meet Italian restraint. Caraway seeds give it character, vinegar gives it brightness, and time gives it depth.
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A Sicilian peasant salad of potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, and raw onion, dressed simply with olive oil and vinegar. Food for working people who knew that humble ingredients, treated with respect, feed both body and soul.
Vastasa. The word means rough, coarse, vulgar. In Sicily, it described the class of people who worked with their hands: laborers, fishermen, farmers. The salad that bears this name makes no apology for its origins. It is honest food assembled from what grows in any Sicilian garden and costs almost nothing.
This is not a composed salad meant to impress. The potatoes are sliced thick. The onion is raw. The tomatoes are cut into wedges, not arranged. You dress it and you eat it. In the Sicilian summer, when the heat makes cooking unbearable, this is dinner. With good bread and perhaps some cheese, it is enough.
What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. No olives, though some would add them. No capers, though they grow wild on the island. No basil, no parsley. Oregano and nothing more. The potatoes must absorb the dressing while still warm. The salad must rest before serving. These are not suggestions.
Insalata Vastasa belongs to the cucina povera of Sicily, the cooking of poverty that turns necessity into virtue. The name itself, from the Sicilian dialect for the rough-handed working class, tells you everything about who made this dish and why. Wealthy Sicilians would never have called a salad by such a name. The poor did so with a shrug and perhaps some pride.
Quantity
1 pound
Yukon Gold or similar
Quantity
8 ounces
trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
2 large
cut into wedges
Quantity
1 small
sliced thin
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoesYukon Gold or similar | 1 pound |
| green beanstrimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces | 8 ounces |
| ripe tomatoescut into wedges | 2 large |
| red onionsliced thin | 1 small |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| red wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| dried oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Place the potatoes whole and unpeeled in a pot of cold salted water. Bring to a gentle boil and cook until a knife pierces them easily, 20 to 25 minutes depending on size. Do not overcook. The potatoes should hold their shape when sliced, not crumble into mush. Drain and let cool until you can handle them comfortably.
While the potatoes cook, bring a separate pot of well-salted water to a vigorous boil. Add the green beans and cook until tender but with pleasant resistance, 4 to 5 minutes. They should snap cleanly when bitten, not squeak against your teeth. Drain and spread on a plate to cool. Do not shock them in ice water. You want them at room temperature, not cold.
Peel the warm potatoes and slice them into rounds about one-third inch thick. Place them in a wide shallow bowl. While they are still warm, drizzle with half the olive oil and a pinch of salt. Warm potatoes absorb dressing. Cold potatoes sit in it.
Add the green beans to the potatoes. Scatter the tomato wedges and sliced onion over top. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and the vinegar. Crumble the oregano between your palms to release its oils and scatter it over the salad. Season with salt and pepper.
Toss everything gently with your hands or two large spoons. Be careful not to break up the potato slices. Let the salad rest at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. This is not optional. The flavors need time to marry, and the potatoes must absorb the dressing.
Taste before serving. The salad may need more salt, more vinegar, or another thread of olive oil. Adjust. Serve on a large platter or directly from the bowl, family style. This is not a salad for individual plates.
1 serving (about 310g)
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