Insalata di Orzo Perlato

Americans reach for rice or quinoa when they want a grain salad. Italians in the Alpine foothills have known better for centuries. Orzo perlato, pearl barley, has a chew that holds up to dressing, a nuttiness that complements vegetables, and the good sense to improve after a day in the refrigerator.

This is not a recipe that tolerates inattention. The barley must be cooked properly: tender but with resistance, never mushy. The vegetables must be roasted until their sugars concentrate and their edges char. The dressing must be bright enough to cut through the richness without drowning the grain. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. There is no cheese here. No nuts. No dried fruit. These are additions that confuse rather than clarify.

Serve this at room temperature. Cold dulls flavor. Let it sit on the counter for twenty minutes after it leaves the refrigerator. Your patience will be rewarded.