
Chef Joost
Amsterdamse Koggetjes (Amsterdam Nougatine Cookies)
A thin Amsterdam cookie carrying a cog ship in its name: caramelized butter dough, almond nougatine, and a 1934 contest that turned municipal pride into something for coffee.
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A cookie named for the iron that marks it, not for hardness: soft cinnamon discs from Vlaardingen, pressed in a checkered pattern and packed for the herring boats.
Vlaardingen smells, in old memory, of tarred rope, river wind, and herring barrels. I didn't grow up there, my tide table hung farther south in Zeeland, but any child from the Dutch coast understands a town where the quay explains the kitchen. IJzerkoekjes belong to that world: small, sturdy, sweet enough for a sailor's pocket, and humble enough that tourists often mistake them for little waffles. They are not waffles. The cookie would like that entered into the record.
The name already tells you the useful part. IJzer means iron, and these koekjes, little cookies, are pressed on a hot checkered iron that leaves its square print across the dough. Not because the cookie is hard. It should be tender, faintly chewy at the centre, with cinnamon and brown sugar doing their quiet Dutch work. But let me tell you a secret: this is how a frugal port town made a plain dough memorable. Pattern is not decoration here. It gives thin ridges that toast faster than the middle, so the first bite has crisp edges before it softens under your teeth.
Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Use real butter, dark basterdsuiker if you can find it, and do not overbake them in your iron. The old ijzerkoekjesijzer, iron-cookie press, gives the right shallow pattern, but a standard waffle iron on gentle heat will do the honest work. Cook them until the squares are golden and the cinnamon smells awake, then stop. A fisherman wanted a cookie that traveled. You want one that doesn't dry out before it reaches the table.
IJzerkoekjes are a regional speciality of Vlaardingen, the South Holland fishing town whose economy was long tied to the North Sea herring fleet and the Maas river trade. Their name comes from the patterned iron, ijzer, used to press and bake the dough, leaving a waffle-like grid on a cookie rather than making a true waffle. Local tradition connects them with provisions for herring fishermen: compact, inexpensive, and sturdy enough for travel, but still soft enough to show they came from a home baker's hand.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
125g
Quantity
100g
softened
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 250g |
| dark brown basterdsuiker or soft dark brown sugar | 125g |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 100g |
| large egg | 1 |
| ground cinnamon | 2 teaspoons |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| milk (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| butter or neutral oil for the iron | as needed |
Beat the softened butter and brown sugar together until the mixture looks darker, smoother, and a little lighter in texture. Add the egg and beat again. Brown basterdsuiker brings moisture as well as sweetness; this is why the cookie stays soft instead of turning into a dry ship's biscuit.
Stir the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt together, then mix them into the butter mixture until you have a soft dough. If it refuses to come together, add the milk one teaspoon at a time. Stop as soon as the dough gathers; overworking it makes the cookie tough, and Vlaardingen has suffered enough without tough cookies.
Cover the dough and chill it for 30 minutes. This short rest firms the butter and lets the cinnamon settle into the dough. A warm dough spreads too quickly in the iron and loses the neat checkered print, which is half the point of the thing.
Heat an ijzerkoekjesijzer or a standard waffle iron to medium, then grease it very lightly. You want steady heat, not fury. The ridges should colour before the centre dries out, so if the first cookie browns in under two minutes, lower the heat.
Roll the chilled dough into walnut-sized balls, about 20g each, and place one or two in the iron, leaving room for them to flatten. Close the iron gently and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, until the pattern is golden brown and the centre still gives slightly when lifted with a palette knife.
Transfer the cookies to a wire rack. They will be fragile at first and firm as they cool, so don't judge them too early. Store them in a tin once fully cool; after a few hours the sugar draws the texture back toward the soft, bendable cookie Vlaardingen expects.
1 serving (about 21g)
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