Hoppin' John

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot with lid (5-quart minimum)
• •Wooden spoon
• •Ladle for serving

Instructions

1. 1

   Render the bacon

   Set a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon pieces and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the meat crisps at the edges. This takes eight to ten minutes. Don't rush it. That rendered fat is your flavor foundation. The kitchen should smell like a Southern morning.

   Thick-cut bacon from a real butcher makes a difference you can taste. The mass-market stuff renders to nothing.
2. 2

   Build the holy trinity

   Add the diced onion, celery, and green pepper to the bacon fat. This is Louisiana's holy trinity, the aromatic backbone of a thousand Southern dishes. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften and the onion turns translucent with golden edges, about seven minutes. Add the garlic and cook one minute more until fragrant.

3. 3

   Add peas and aromatics

   Pour in the sorted black-eyed peas and stir to coat them in the rendered fat. Nestle the ham hock into the center of the pot. Add chicken stock, bay leaves, thyme, cayenne, salt, and pepper. The liquid should cover everything by about an inch. If it doesn't, add more stock or water.

4. 4

   Simmer until tender

   Bring the liquid to a boil, then immediately reduce to a gentle simmer. Cover with a lid slightly ajar to let steam escape. Cook until the peas are tender but hold their shape, about one hour. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. The liquid will reduce and thicken as the peas release their starch.

   Resist adding salt until the end. Ham hocks vary wildly in saltiness, and you can always add more but never subtract.
5. 5

   Remove ham hock and shred meat

   Transfer the ham hock to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bone, discarding the skin, fat, and gristle. Shred the meat into bite-sized pieces. A good ham hock yields about one cup of smoky, tender meat. Return the meat to the pot.

6. 6

   Cook the rice

   Stir in the rice, ensuring it's submerged in the cooking liquid. If the pot looks dry, add half a cup more stock. Cover tightly and reduce heat to low. Cook without lifting the lid for twenty minutes. The rice steams in the flavorful broth, absorbing all that porky, peppery goodness.

7. 7

   Rest and fluff

   Remove from heat and let stand, still covered, for ten minutes. This resting period allows the rice to finish cooking in residual steam and makes the grains easier to separate. Remove the bay leaves. Fluff gently with a fork, folding the peas and rice together without mashing.

8. 8

   Season and serve

   Taste and adjust seasoning. The dish often needs more salt and black pepper at this stage. Transfer to a warm serving bowl or serve directly from the pot. Scatter green onions generously over the top. Set out hot sauce and warm cornbread on the side. This is food meant to be shared.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out a proper smoked ham hock from a butcher rather than the pale, wet specimens in grocery store coolers. The smoke flavor should hit your nose before you open the package.
• •Dried peas don't require soaking for this recipe. The long simmer does the work, and unsoaked peas hold their shape better.
• •For vegetarian Hoppin' John, replace the ham hock with two tablespoons of smoked paprika and use vegetable stock. Add a splash of liquid smoke if you want more depth. It won't be the same, but it will be good.
• •The potlikker at the bottom of the pot is liquid gold. Save it for reheating leftovers or ladling over the rice when serving.
• •A splash of apple cider vinegar stirred in at the end brightens everything. Start with a teaspoon and taste.

Advance Preparation

• •Complete the dish through step five, before adding rice, up to two days ahead. Refrigerate, then reheat gently and proceed with the rice cooking when ready to serve.
• •Fully cooked Hoppin' John refrigerates beautifully for up to five days. Reheat with a splash of stock to loosen, covered, over low heat.
• •For potlucks, transport in the Dutch oven wrapped in towels. It holds heat for well over an hour and reheats easily on any stovetop.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 460g)