
Chef Lupita
Cocol de Anís de Tlaxcala e Hidalgo
Tlaxcala and Hidalgo's sturdy rhomboid pan dulce, sweetened with piloncillo and perfumed with anise seed, baked dense enough to last the week.
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Puebla's convent hojaldras are lard-rich pan de muerto from the city of angels, shaped with crossed bones, scented with azahar, and baked for the November table.
Puebla, in the Angelopolis region, owns this bread. These hojaldras belong to the convent kitchens of the city of Puebla, especially Santa Rosa, where Dominican women turned wheat flour, eggs, sugar, manteca de cerdo, anise, and orange blossom water into the bread that appears every November for Dia de Muertos.
Do not let the word hojaldra confuse you. In Puebla, this is not French puff pastry. It is pan de muerto: round, enriched, tender, with bone-shaped strips across the top and a small knob in the center. The texture should pull apart in soft layers because the dough is worked with lard and patience. La manteca es el sabor. Butter smells pretty, yes. Manteca gives the bread its body.
I learned a version of these from a woman near the Mercado de Sabores who had an aunt who baked for a church kitchen off 5 de Mayo. She told me the dough has to rest until it feels alive under your hand. Not rushed. Not forced with too much yeast. The women in the convents understood that bread is discipline: measure, knead, wait, shape, wait again.
Serve them on talavera from Puebla with chocolate de metate or cafe de olla. White sugar on the crust, bones visible, no colored sprinkles, no novelty nonsense. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Puebla's convent kitchens became major centers of Mexican baking in the 17th and 18th centuries, when Spanish wheat, sugar, eggs, lard, and aromatic waters entered religious houses staffed by Indigenous, mestiza, criolla, and Spanish women. The Convento de Santa Rosa is better known for the mole poblano origin legend, but the same conventual economy produced breads, sweets, and feast-day foods for the liturgical calendar. Pan de muerto took regional forms across Mexico, and in Puebla the word hojaldra became the common name for the round Dia de Muertos bread marked with bones and dusted with white sugar.
Quantity
4 1/2 cups
plus more for dusting
Quantity
2 1/4 teaspoons
Quantity
3/4 cup
warm but not hot
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
lightly crushed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
4
at room temperature
Quantity
1
at room temperature
Quantity
3/4 cup
softened
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon milk
Quantity
3 tablespoons
melted, for finishing
Quantity
1/2 cup
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 4 1/2 cups |
| active dry yeast | 2 1/4 teaspoons |
| whole milkwarm but not hot | 3/4 cup |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| anise seedlightly crushed | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh orange zest | 1 tablespoon |
| agua de azahar, orange blossom water | 2 tablespoons |
| large eggsat room temperature | 4 |
| large egg yolkat room temperature | 1 |
| manteca de cerdosoftened | 3/4 cup |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| egg wash | 1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon milk |
| manteca de cerdomelted, for finishing | 3 tablespoons |
| white granulated sugarfor finishing | 1/2 cup |
Stir the yeast into the warm milk with 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Let it stand for 8 to 10 minutes, until foamy. If it does nothing, your yeast is dead. Start again. Bread does not forgive dead yeast.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, remaining sugar, salt, crushed anise, and orange zest. Add the foamy yeast mixture, orange blossom water, eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla. Mix on low until the flour disappears and the dough looks rough and sticky.
Add the softened manteca de cerdo one tablespoon at a time while mixing on medium-low. Do not dump it all in at once. Let each spoonful disappear before adding the next. The dough will look greasy first, then gather itself into something smooth, elastic, and slightly glossy. That is the lard entering the structure of the bread.
Knead for 10 to 12 minutes in the mixer, or 15 minutes by hand on a lightly floured table. The dough should be soft and tacky, not dry. When you stretch a small piece, it should pull thin before tearing. If you add too much flour because you are afraid of sticky dough, the hojaldras will bake heavy. No me vengas con atajos.
Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let it rise in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until doubled. Press it gently with one finger. If the indentation fills back slowly, it is ready. If it springs back hard, it needs more time.
Turn the dough onto the table. Cut off one quarter of the dough for the bones and center knobs. Divide the remaining dough into 8 equal pieces and shape each into a tight round. Put them on parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving room for expansion.
Divide the reserved dough into 24 small pieces. Roll 16 of them into ropes, pressing with three fingers as you roll so the dough forms the knobby ridges of bones. Shape the remaining 8 pieces into small balls for the center. Lay two bone ropes across each round in an X, then press one small ball where they cross. This is the sign of the bread. Make it clean.
Cover the shaped hojaldras loosely and let them rise 45 to 60 minutes, until puffy and light. Meanwhile heat the oven to 350F. Do not crowd the baking sheets. These breads need space or the bones will blur into the round.
Brush each hojaldra gently with the egg wash. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans once, until the crust is deep golden and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. The bread should smell of anise, orange, and warm lard, the smell of a Puebla bakery in late October.
While the hojaldras are still warm, brush the tops with melted manteca de cerdo and coat generously with white granulated sugar. The sugar should cling to the bones and settle into the ridges. Let them cool at least 20 minutes before serving. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 150g)
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