Culinary Explorer

A cooking platform built around craft, culture, and the stories behind what we eat.

Discover Culinary Explorer
Hojaldras Conventuales de Santa Rosa

Hojaldras Conventuales de Santa Rosa

Created by

Puebla's convent hojaldras are lard-rich pan de muerto from the city of angels, shaped with crossed bones, scented with azahar, and baked for the November table.

Breads
Mexican
Holiday
Special Occasion
Make Ahead
45 min
Active Time
25 min cook4 hr 40 min total
Yield8 medium hojaldras

Puebla, in the Angelopolis region, owns this bread. These hojaldras belong to the convent kitchens of the city of Puebla, especially Santa Rosa, where Dominican women turned wheat flour, eggs, sugar, manteca de cerdo, anise, and orange blossom water into the bread that appears every November for Dia de Muertos.

Do not let the word hojaldra confuse you. In Puebla, this is not French puff pastry. It is pan de muerto: round, enriched, tender, with bone-shaped strips across the top and a small knob in the center. The texture should pull apart in soft layers because the dough is worked with lard and patience. La manteca es el sabor. Butter smells pretty, yes. Manteca gives the bread its body.

I learned a version of these from a woman near the Mercado de Sabores who had an aunt who baked for a church kitchen off 5 de Mayo. She told me the dough has to rest until it feels alive under your hand. Not rushed. Not forced with too much yeast. The women in the convents understood that bread is discipline: measure, knead, wait, shape, wait again.

Serve them on talavera from Puebla with chocolate de metate or cafe de olla. White sugar on the crust, bones visible, no colored sprinkles, no novelty nonsense. Cada estado, su propia cocina.

Puebla's convent kitchens became major centers of Mexican baking in the 17th and 18th centuries, when Spanish wheat, sugar, eggs, lard, and aromatic waters entered religious houses staffed by Indigenous, mestiza, criolla, and Spanish women. The Convento de Santa Rosa is better known for the mole poblano origin legend, but the same conventual economy produced breads, sweets, and feast-day foods for the liturgical calendar. Pan de muerto took regional forms across Mexico, and in Puebla the word hojaldra became the common name for the round Dia de Muertos bread marked with bones and dusted with white sugar.

The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.

Discover Culinary Explorer

Ingredients

all-purpose flour

Quantity

4 1/2 cups

plus more for dusting

active dry yeast

Quantity

2 1/4 teaspoons

whole milk

Quantity

3/4 cup

warm but not hot

granulated sugar

Quantity

1/2 cup

fine sea salt

Quantity

1 teaspoon

anise seed

Quantity

1 tablespoon

lightly crushed

fresh orange zest

Quantity

1 tablespoon

agua de azahar, orange blossom water

Quantity

2 tablespoons

large eggs

Quantity

4

at room temperature

large egg yolk

Quantity

1

at room temperature

manteca de cerdo

Quantity

3/4 cup

softened

vanilla extract

Quantity

1 teaspoon

egg wash

Quantity

1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon milk

manteca de cerdo

Quantity

3 tablespoons

melted, for finishing

white granulated sugar

Quantity

1/2 cup

for finishing

Equipment Needed

  • Stand mixer with dough hook or a strong pair of hands
  • Two heavy baking sheets
  • Parchment paper
  • Pastry brush
  • Talavera platter from Puebla for serving

Instructions

  1. 1

    Wake the yeast

    Stir the yeast into the warm milk with 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Let it stand for 8 to 10 minutes, until foamy. If it does nothing, your yeast is dead. Start again. Bread does not forgive dead yeast.

  2. 2

    Mix the dough

    In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, remaining sugar, salt, crushed anise, and orange zest. Add the foamy yeast mixture, orange blossom water, eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla. Mix on low until the flour disappears and the dough looks rough and sticky.

  3. 3

    Work in lard

    Add the softened manteca de cerdo one tablespoon at a time while mixing on medium-low. Do not dump it all in at once. Let each spoonful disappear before adding the next. The dough will look greasy first, then gather itself into something smooth, elastic, and slightly glossy. That is the lard entering the structure of the bread.

  4. 4

    Knead until supple

    Knead for 10 to 12 minutes in the mixer, or 15 minutes by hand on a lightly floured table. The dough should be soft and tacky, not dry. When you stretch a small piece, it should pull thin before tearing. If you add too much flour because you are afraid of sticky dough, the hojaldras will bake heavy. No me vengas con atajos.

    The dough should feel like an enriched bread dough, not a tortilla masa. Soft, elastic, and a little stubborn.
  5. 5

    Let it rise

    Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let it rise in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until doubled. Press it gently with one finger. If the indentation fills back slowly, it is ready. If it springs back hard, it needs more time.

  6. 6

    Divide and shape

    Turn the dough onto the table. Cut off one quarter of the dough for the bones and center knobs. Divide the remaining dough into 8 equal pieces and shape each into a tight round. Put them on parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving room for expansion.

  7. 7

    Make the bones

    Divide the reserved dough into 24 small pieces. Roll 16 of them into ropes, pressing with three fingers as you roll so the dough forms the knobby ridges of bones. Shape the remaining 8 pieces into small balls for the center. Lay two bone ropes across each round in an X, then press one small ball where they cross. This is the sign of the bread. Make it clean.

  8. 8

    Proof again

    Cover the shaped hojaldras loosely and let them rise 45 to 60 minutes, until puffy and light. Meanwhile heat the oven to 350F. Do not crowd the baking sheets. These breads need space or the bones will blur into the round.

  9. 9

    Bake the hojaldras

    Brush each hojaldra gently with the egg wash. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans once, until the crust is deep golden and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. The bread should smell of anise, orange, and warm lard, the smell of a Puebla bakery in late October.

  10. 10

    Sugar the crust

    While the hojaldras are still warm, brush the tops with melted manteca de cerdo and coat generously with white granulated sugar. The sugar should cling to the bones and settle into the ridges. Let them cool at least 20 minutes before serving. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.

Chef Tips

  • Buy fresh manteca de cerdo from a good carniceria or a Mexican market. The shelf-stable block from a supermarket can taste flat. A bad fat gives you a bad bread. Si no conoces el mercado, no conoces la cocina.
  • Agua de azahar is the convent note here. Look for it at Mexican, Middle Eastern, or baking shops. If you cannot find it, use extra orange zest, but understand the loss: orange zest is bright, azahar is floral and old-world.
  • This is not a chile dish and it is not supposed to be hot. Not all Mexican food is built on chiles. Puebla can give you mole poblano, chiles en nogada, camotes, and these hojaldras. This is a 32-state cuisine.
  • For a better crumb, refrigerate the dough after the first rise for 8 to 12 hours, then shape it cold the next morning. The flavor deepens and the lard firms enough to make shaping easier.
  • Do not replace the lard with oil. Oil will make the dough soft but not layered, and the flavor will disappear. If you refuse the manteca, make a different bread.

Advance Preparation

  • The dough can be mixed and given its first rise one day ahead. Refrigerate it covered overnight, then shape, proof, and bake the next day.
  • Baked hojaldras keep well for 2 days wrapped in a cotton servilleta. Rewarm gently in a low oven before serving.
  • For longer storage, freeze the baked hojaldras without the sugar finish for up to 1 month. Thaw, warm, brush with melted manteca, and sugar them before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 150g)

Calories
655 calories
Total Fat
32 g
Saturated Fat
12 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
17 g
Cholesterol
170 mg
Sodium
370 mg
Total Carbohydrates
80 g
Dietary Fiber
3 g
Sugars
26 g
Protein
12 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

Where cooking meets culture.

Culinary guides, cultural storytelling, and the editorial depth that makes cooking meaningful.

Discover Culinary Explorer

More from Pan Conventual

Browse the full collection