Cocol de Anís de Tlaxcala e Hidalgo

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Small saucepan for piloncillo tea
• •Large mixing bowl
• •Bench scraper
• •Two baking sheets
• •Woven cotton servilleta for serving

Instructions

1. 1

   Make piloncillo tea

   Combine the piloncillo, water, cinnamon stick, and crushed anise seed in a small saucepan. Warm over medium heat until the piloncillo dissolves and the kitchen smells of anise and canela. Do not boil it hard. Strain and cool until just warm, about body temperature. Hot syrup kills yeast. Warm syrup feeds it.

2. 2

   Mix the dough

   In a large bowl, mix the flour, yeast, salt, and ground canela. Add the warm piloncillo tea, softened manteca de cerdo, and egg. Mix until a rough dough forms. It will look stiff. Good. Cocol is a bread with backbone, not a cloud.

3. 3

   Knead until firm

   Knead on the table for 10 to 12 minutes, dusting with only enough flour to keep it from sticking. The dough should become smooth, tight, and elastic, with tiny dark flecks from the anise. If it feels dry, wet your hands and keep kneading. Do not pour in more water unless the dough refuses to come together.

4. 4

   Let it rise

   Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a clean cloth, and let it rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 60 to 75 minutes. It does not rise like white sandwich bread. Piloncillo and lard make the dough heavier. Be patient. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.

5. 5

   Shape the cocoles

   Turn the dough onto the table and divide it into 12 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a squat oval, then pinch and press the sides into a rhombus, the old market shape. Flatten each one slightly with your palm. They should be sturdy and even, about 1/2 inch thick.

6. 6

   Proof and glaze

   Set the cocoles on parchment-lined baking sheets with space between them. Cover and let them rest 30 to 40 minutes, until puffed but still compact. Brush with egg wash. Sprinkle sesame seeds over the top if using. The shine should be light, not a bakery shellac.

7. 7

   Bake until brown

   Bake at 375F for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pans once, until the cocoles are deep brown, firm at the edges, and sound hollow when tapped underneath. The piloncillo darkens fast, so watch the last five minutes. Brown is flavor. Burned is laziness.

8. 8

   Cool and serve

   Cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes before eating. Serve with cafe de olla, atole, or hot chocolate. The crumb should be dense, fragrant, and slightly chewy. That is the point. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.

Chef Tips

• •Use piloncillo, not brown sugar, if you can find it. Brown sugar gives sweetness. Piloncillo gives mineral depth and that dark central Mexico flavor. A substitution is a compromise, not an upgrade.
• •Anise seed must be fresh. Crush it between your fingers. If it does not smell sweet and sharp, buy a new bag. Pregúntale a las señoras del mercado.
• •The fat is manteca de cerdo. Butter makes a richer bread, yes, but it changes the old market character. La manteca es el sabor.

Advance Preparation

• •The piloncillo tea can be made one day ahead and refrigerated. Warm it gently before mixing the dough.
• •Baked cocoles keep well for 4 to 5 days wrapped in a clean cloth. That keeping quality is part of the bread's purpose.
• •To refresh a day-old cocol, warm it briefly on a dry comal or in a low oven until the crust softens and the anise wakes up again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 80g)