Hobakgoji-namul (Seasoned Dried Squash)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Medium mixing bowl
• •Medium skillet with lid
• •Colander

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the squash

   Rinse the dried squash once under running water to remove dust, then soak it in 3 cups warm water for 25 to 30 minutes. It should bend easily and feel leathery-soft, not papery at the center. This soaking is not a courtesy step; it decides whether the finished namul is pleasantly chewy or tough.

   If your dried squash is very thick or old, soak it 10 minutes longer. Do not use boiling water, which can make the outside soft while the center stays stubborn.
2. 2

   Squeeze it dry

   Drain the squash and squeeze it firmly in both hands until no water streams out. Fluff the pieces apart into a bowl. This matters because watery squash will dilute the soy sauce and steam in the skillet instead of taking on a light gloss.

3. 3

   Season before heat

   Add the soup soy sauce, regular soy sauce, garlic, scallion, 2 teaspoons of the perilla oil, sesame oil, and sugar to the squash. Mix by hand, separating any folded pieces so the seasoning reaches the whole surface. Taste one piece now. It should be lightly salty, because it will deepen as it cooks.

4. 4

   Saute gently

   Heat a medium skillet over medium heat and add the seasoned squash. Saute for 3 minutes, stirring and lifting so the garlic does not catch. Add the anchovy-kelp broth or water, cover, and cook 4 to 5 minutes, until the squash turns tender but still has chew. The small amount of liquid finishes the rehydration without washing away the seasoning.

5. 5

   Finish and taste

   Uncover and cook 1 to 2 minutes more, until the pan looks nearly dry and the squash is glossy. Turn off the heat and fold in the remaining 1 teaspoon perilla oil and the crushed sesame seeds. Taste before salting. Add up to 1 teaspoon more soup soy sauce or a small pinch of salt only if the squash tastes flat.

6. 6

   Serve as banchan

   Serve warm, room temperature, or cool as banchan beside rice. For a Daeboreum table, place it with other namul, but keep each one seasoned separately. That is how a table of vegetables tastes like many clear voices, not one muddy bowl.

Chef Tips

• •Look for dried squash that is pale yellow to light amber, not gray or dusty brown. A little curling is normal. A sour or musty smell means it was dried or stored badly, and my teacher would have sent it back without a word.
• •Perilla oil suits dried namul because it has a round, nutty depth. Sesame oil alone is still good, but use a little less, because it can make this quiet squash taste louder than it should.
• •Anchovy-kelp broth gives more depth, but water is an honest weeknight choice. The corner you may cut is the broth. The corner you may not cut is squeezing the soaked squash dry.

Advance Preparation

• •The dried squash can be soaked, squeezed, and seasoned up to 8 hours ahead, then refrigerated. Bring it close to room temperature before sauteing so it cooks evenly.
• •Cooked hobakgoji-namul keeps 3 days in the refrigerator in a covered container. Let it come to room temperature before serving, or warm it briefly in a skillet with 1 teaspoon water.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 70g)