
Chef Jeong-sun
Bangpung-namul (Seasoned Coastal Hogfennel)
A bittersweet spring green from the southern shore, blanched just until pliant, then seasoned lightly so its clean coastal bitterness stays alive on the rice table.
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Tender Korean summer zucchini softened gently in the pan with saeujeot for salt and depth, finished with sesame so the vegetable stays sweet, green, and plainly itself.
Aehobak belongs to summer markets, stacked pale green and tender enough that your thumbnail can mark the skin. Cook the month you're standing in. When the squash is young, this little banchan needs almost nothing: a little salt, a little saeujeot (salted shrimp), garlic, scallion, and sesame at the end.
The dish lives or dies by gentleness. People brown zucchini because they learned to chase color in a pan, but aehobak-namul is not that dish. You salt it first so the flesh seasons all the way through and releases water, then you cook it just until it slumps. No hard frying. No sugar. Let it taste like itself.
Notebook 38 says 300 grams of aehobak takes 3/4 teaspoon saeujeot if the salted shrimp is ordinary, less if it is fierce. That is the kind of number a grandmother might keep in her hand and never speak aloud. Write it down. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
Aehobak, the immature Korean summer squash, is one of the everyday vegetables of the Korean home table, used in namul, jeon, jjigae, and noodle toppings when summer fields are generous. Seasoning it with saeujeot reflects an old coastal pantry habit: salted shrimp gives both salinity and quiet fermentation depth, especially in mild vegetable dishes where soy sauce would darken the color and taste too heavy. This is not a palace dish dressed down; it is ordinary banchan, which is exactly why it needs recording.
Quantity
1 medium, about 300g
halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch half-moons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for salting the zucchini
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
1 small clove
minced
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus up to 1 teaspoon more to taste
finely chopped
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 small
thinly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Korean zucchini (aehobak)halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch half-moons | 1 medium, about 300g |
| fine sea saltfor salting the zucchini | 1/2 teaspoon |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oildivided | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicminced | 1 small clove |
| saeujeot (Korean salted shrimp)finely chopped | 2 teaspoons, plus up to 1 teaspoon more to taste |
| scallionthinly sliced | 1 |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| water (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| red chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1/2 small |
Trim the zucchini, halve it lengthwise, and cut it into 1/4-inch half-moons. Keep the slices even. Thin pieces collapse before the center seasons; thick pieces stay watery in the middle. This knife work is small, but it is the dish.
Put the sliced zucchini in a bowl with 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt and toss gently. Let it stand 10 minutes, just until the slices bend slightly and a spoonful or two of liquid gathers at the bottom. Salting seasons the vegetable inside and removes enough water that it can soften without turning soupy.
Drain the zucchini and press it lightly between your hands or in a clean towel. Do not wring it like laundry and do not rinse away the seasoning. The pieces should feel flexible but still hold their half-moon shape.
Heat a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the neutral oil and 1/2 teaspoon of the sesame oil, then add the garlic and chopped saeujeot. Stir for 20 to 30 seconds, only until the garlic smells rounded and the salted shrimp loosens into the oil. Do not let the garlic brown, because bitterness shows quickly in a pale namul.
Add the drained zucchini and toss to coat. Cook 3 to 4 minutes over medium heat, turning gently, until the slices turn glossy and bend at the edges. If the pan goes dry before the zucchini softens, add 1 teaspoon water and cover for 30 seconds. You want tenderness, not browning.
Taste one warm slice. If it is flat, add another 1/2 to 1 teaspoon chopped saeujeot, not a careless pour of soy sauce. Turn off the heat and fold in the scallion, remaining 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil, sesame seeds, and red chili if using. Let it sit 5 minutes before serving, because the seasoning settles as it cools.
1 serving (about 75g)
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