
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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Jewel-toned beets cloaked in a glistening sweet-and-sour glaze, the kind of honest side dish that transforms a weeknight supper into something your grandmother would recognize and approve.
The origins of this dish remain disputed. Some claim it honors Harvard University, the sauce matching the school's crimson pride. Others trace it to a tavern called Harwood's in England. I care less about the etymology than the result: tender beets suspended in a glaze that balances sweet against sour with the precision of a tightrope walker.
Harvard Beets appeared in American cookbooks around 1910 and never left. They graced church suppers and holiday tables throughout New England for decades, then quietly retreated as canned vegetables fell from fashion. This is a shame. Done properly, with beets you've roasted yourself and a sauce you've tasted and adjusted, this dish deserves its place at any gathering.
The technique could not be simpler. A slurry of cornstarch, sugar, and vinegar thickens into a glossy sauce that clings to each slice. The butter stirred in at the end rounds the sharp edges and adds body. What emerges is a side dish of surprising elegance from humble roots.
Quantity
2 pounds (about 6)
trimmed with 1 inch of stems attached
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 tablespoons
cut into pieces
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1 tablespoon
minced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium beetstrimmed with 1 inch of stems attached | 2 pounds (about 6) |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 cup |
| cornstarch | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| apple cider vinegar | 1/3 cup |
| reserved beet cooking liquid or water | 1/2 cup |
| unsalted buttercut into pieces | 3 tablespoons |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/8 teaspoon |
| fresh chives (optional)minced | 1 tablespoon |
Preheat your oven to 400°F. Scrub the beets under cold water but do not peel them. Wrap each beet individually in aluminum foil, creating snug packages. Place them on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until a knife slides through the center with no resistance, 45 minutes to 1 hour depending on size. The aroma will fill your kitchen with something earthy and sweet.
Remove beets from the oven and let them rest in their foil until cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes. Open the packets and save any accumulated juices for the sauce. The skins will slip off easily under running water or with a paper towel. Slice beets into 1/4-inch rounds or cut into 1/2-inch cubes, whichever you prefer.
In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt until no lumps remain. Add the vinegar and the reserved beet liquid, whisking constantly to prevent the cornstarch from clumping. The mixture will look thin and unpromising. Have faith.
Set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula. The sauce will appear unchanged for several minutes, then suddenly transform. You'll see it go from watery to glossy and thick enough to coat the back of your spoon, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low once it thickens.
Gently fold the sliced beets into the sauce, turning them carefully to coat every surface with that glistening glaze. Let them warm together over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The beets will tint the sauce an even deeper crimson as they mingle.
Remove the pan from heat. Add the butter pieces and stir gently until melted and incorporated. The sauce will take on a silky sheen and lose any harsh edges. Taste and adjust. You may want a pinch more salt or a splash more vinegar to sharpen the balance. Season with black pepper.
Transfer to a warmed serving dish. Scatter with minced chives if you like, though the dish needs nothing more. Serve immediately alongside roast pork, turkey, or baked ham. These beets also hold beautifully on a buffet, maintaining their glossy coat for an hour or more.
1 serving (about 155g)
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