Chef Dimitra
Chios Nerantzi Glyko Koutaliou (Νεράντζι Γλυκό Κουταλιού)
Chios bitter orange peel rolled into tight coils, blanched through clean waters, then preserved in a clear fragrant syrup for the spoon-sweet tray.
Culinary Explorer
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Halvas Farsalon (Χαλβάς Φαρσάλων), Farsala's Thessalian Halva
Created by
Farsala's halva is not semolina and not sesame: a glossy Thessalian slab of starch, sugar, oil, and almonds, browned patiently, then baked until the top scorches dark.
Desserts
Greek
Comfort Food
Special Occasion
Make Ahead
15 min
Active Time
55 min cook•3 hr 10 min total
Yield16 squares
Halvas Farsalon belongs to Farsala in Thessaly, and it is not the semolina halva spooned from a pot, and not the sesame block from the grocer. It is a glossy, caramel-brown slab of niseste, starch, sugar, oil, and almonds, cut into heavy squares with a scorched top that grips the knife a little.
The whole dish rests on one stubborn instruction: keep cooking after it thickens. At first it looks finished too early, pale and stiff and rather disappointing. Then, with steady stirring, it darkens, turns shiny, and begins to pull from the pan in slow folds. That browning is the dish. Farsala's color comes from the pan, not from cinnamon, cocoa, or any little trick slipped in at the end.
I leave it plain because Farsala leaves it plain. A little sugar on top goes under strong heat until it blisters dark, and then the halva rests until it can be cut cleanly. Your first tray may not look like a halvadopoios made it at the fair, but it will taste of the real thing: sugar, starch, almonds, patience.
Halvas Farsalon is tied to Farsala in Thessaly, a town whose name became attached to the sweet so firmly that the place is part of the recipe. It belongs to the family of sapoune halva, glossy starch sweets known in the Ottoman period and later sold at Greek panigyria by specialist halva makers. Its identity is the use of niseste and the dark baked sugar crust, which separates it from both semolina halva and tahini halva.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
cornflour/cornstarch (niseste, νισεστές)
Quantity
250g
cold water
Quantity
1 litre
granulated sugar
Quantity
600g
for the halva
neutral oil, such as sunflower oil
Quantity
180ml
plus a little for the pan
blanched almonds
Quantity
150g
lightly toasted
granulated sugar
Quantity
70g
for the scorched top
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cornflour/cornstarch (niseste, νισεστές) | 250g |
| cold water | 1 litre |
| granulated sugarfor the halva | 600g |
| neutral oil, such as sunflower oilplus a little for the pan | 180ml |
| blanched almondslightly toasted | 150g |
| granulated sugarfor the scorched top | 70g |
Equipment Needed
- •metal tapsi or baking pan, 30 x 22 cm
- •wide heavy nonstick pan or copper rondeau, 28 to 30 cm
- •stout wooden spoon or strong heatproof spatula
Instructions
- 1
Prepare the pan
Lightly oil a 30 x 22 cm metal tapsi or baking pan. Toast the almonds in a dry pan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, just until they smell nutty and take a little color, then set them aside.
- 2
Whisk the starch
Put the niseste in a large bowl and whisk in 300ml of the cold water until completely smooth. Add the remaining 700ml water and the 600g sugar, then whisk again. Scrape the bottom of the bowl with the whisk, because dry starch likes to hide there.
- 3
Cook past thickening
Pour the oil into a wide, heavy pan over medium heat. Whisk the starch mixture once more and pour it in. Stir constantly with a flat wooden spoon or strong heatproof spatula. First it will look thin, then milky, then suddenly thick and pale. Don't stop there. Keep stirring 35 to 45 minutes, lowering the heat if it threatens to catch, until the halva turns glossy caramel-brown, the spoon leaves a clean path for a moment, and a little oil shines at the edges. This is the step that decides Halvas Farsalon. Stop at pale paste and you have starch pudding, not Farsala's halva.
The deep color comes from the browned starch and sugar in the pan. No cocoa, no cinnamon, no coloring. The region is the dish's surname. - 4
Fold in almonds
Add the toasted almonds and stir for 2 minutes so they settle through the thick halva. The mixture should be heavy, elastic, and shiny, pulling away from the sides in slow folds.
- 5
Spread the halva
Scrape the halva into the oiled pan. Smooth it to an even 2 to 3 cm thickness with an oiled spatula or the back of a spoon. Work while it is hot, because it sets as it cools.
- 6
Scorch the top
Heat the oven to 220C with a rack in the upper third. Sprinkle the 70g sugar evenly over the surface. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, then switch to the grill or broiler for 2 to 4 minutes, watching closely, until the top blisters in dark patches and forms a thin glassy crust.
- 7
Cool and cut
Let the halva cool at least 2 hours, until fully set. Cut into squares with a lightly oiled knife, wiping the blade between cuts. Serve at room temperature. It should be glossy, chewy, and a little sticky on the knife.
Chef Tips
- •Buy pure niseste or cornstarch, not cornmeal. If you find Greek niseste from a good grocer, use it; if not, a fresh box of cornstarch is the honest substitute. Old starch tastes dusty and never quite loses it.
- •Use a wide pan, not a tall saucepan. More surface helps the water cook off and the halva brown evenly. A thin pot will scorch before the center is ready, and then you will be angry at the pot, which is fair.
- •Made with oil, not butter, this is nistisimo, suitable for the fasting table. Serve small squares with Greek coffee and cold water. It keeps at room temperature for 4 days once fully cool.
Advance Preparation
- •Toast the almonds up to 3 days ahead and keep them covered at room temperature.
- •Make the halva the day before serving; the squares cut more cleanly after a full rest.
- •Whisk the starch and water only when you are ready to cook. If it sits, the starch settles hard on the bottom.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 120g)
Calories
370 calories
Total Fat
16 g
Saturated Fat
2 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
14 g
Cholesterol
0 mg
Sodium
5 mg
Total Carbohydrates
58 g
Dietary Fiber
1 g
Sugars
42 g
Protein
2 g
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