Griebenschmalz

Griebenschmalz belongs to the cold months and the Schlachtfest, the old pig-killing day when every useful part had to find its place. The chops were not the clever part. The clever part was the fat, rendered clean, seasoned well, and set in a crock so a slice of rye bread could become supper. Weggeworfen wird nichts.

The regions argue in the usual way. In the south and in Austria you hear Grammelschmalz, often with marjoram and a little apple. In the north, it sits closer to Schwarzbrot, pickled cucumber, and sometimes goose fat folded through for softness. I make the pork version with onion and apple because the sweet-sharp bite keeps the fat from eating flat. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.

The whole dish is decided by the heat. Start the diced fat in a heavy pot with a spoon of water and keep it low; the water protects the first minutes while the fat begins to melt, then cooks away. Rush it and the outside browns before the inside gives up its fat, leaving tough little bits and a dirty taste. Low heat gives you clear lard and crisp Grieben, cracklings, that still have a bite under the teeth.

The onion and apple go in late because they carry water. Add them early and they stew the cracklings soft. Add them after the fat is rendered and the Grieben are golden, and they fry just enough to sweeten, then settle into the crock. Das braucht seine Zeit, but not drama.