
Chef Jeong-sun
Al-tang (Fish Roe Stew)
A weeknight fish roe stew with radish and crown daisy in a clean spicy broth, where the whole success depends on adding the roe late enough that it sets tender, not chalky.
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A clear beef and tripe soup built from brisket, honeycomb tripe, and Korean radish, simmered low so the broth stays deep, clean, and separate from seolleongtang's milky bones.
Gomtang is not seolleongtang with another name. Seolleongtang asks bones to work until the broth turns milky; gomtang asks meat and offal to season clear water slowly. If your pot is roaring, you are already walking toward the wrong soup.
My teacher Master Seong-nyeo kept a narrow spoon at the stove for this kind of broth. She tasted, rinsed the spoon, tasted again, then wrote down salt after the broth was finished, never before. Notebook 37 says brisket, shank, cleaned honeycomb tripe, and radish in the last hour. That last-hour radish matters: cook it all day and it disappears; cook it briefly and it sweetens the bowl while staying a vegetable.
Tonight this dish asks for patience more than cleverness. Soak, blanch, rinse the pot, then simmer low enough that the surface only trembles. Skim early, leave it alone later, and slice the meat across the grain so every spoonful eats cleanly with rice. At the table it is quiet food: bowl, rice, scallion, black pepper, kkakdugi for a clean crunch. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway, so the next pot can be the same good pot.
The word gomtang is tied to the Korean verb goda, to boil down or simmer thoroughly, and it names a family of long-cooked soups rather than one single restaurant style. Naju gomtang became especially known in the twentieth century around Naju in South Jeolla, a cattle-market city where clear bowls of beef soup fed merchants, workers, and travelers. Its difference from seolleongtang is practical: seolleongtang is built on bones boiled until milky, while many gomtang lineages rely on meat, tripe, and sometimes radish for a clearer broth.
Quantity
1.2kg
left in one piece
Quantity
600g
cut into 2 large pieces
Quantity
500g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for scrubbing the tripe
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for scrubbing the tripe
Quantity
18 cups
plus more for soaking and blanching
Quantity
1 large
peeled and halved
Quantity
12
lightly crushed
Quantity
4
cut into 3-inch lengths
Quantity
600g
peeled and cut into 2 large chunks
Quantity
2 teaspoons
plus more for serving
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for serving
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef brisket (yangji)left in one piece | 1.2kg |
| beef shank or shin (satae)cut into 2 large pieces | 600g |
| cleaned honeycomb tripe (yang) | 500g |
| all-purpose flourfor scrubbing the tripe | 2 tablespoons |
| coarse saltfor scrubbing the tripe | 1 tablespoon |
| waterplus more for soaking and blanching | 18 cups |
| onionpeeled and halved | 1 large |
| garlic cloveslightly crushed | 12 |
| scallions for brothcut into 3-inch lengths | 4 |
| Korean radish (mu)peeled and cut into 2 large chunks | 600g |
| fine sea saltplus more for serving | 2 teaspoons |
| soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| scallions for servingthinly sliced | 3 |
| freshly ground black pepperfor serving | 1 teaspoon |
| cooked short-grain rice (optional) | to serve |
| kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) (optional) | to serve |
Put the brisket and shank in a large bowl of cold water for 1 hour, changing the water once if it turns deep red. This draws out blood that would muddy a clear broth. Rub the cleaned honeycomb tripe with the flour and coarse salt for 3 minutes, then rinse under cold running water until it no longer feels slippery.
Put the beef and tripe in a stockpot and cover with fresh cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil and cook hard for 8 minutes. Drain everything, rinse the meat and tripe under warm water, and wash the pot. Throw this water away without regret. It has done its work by carrying off scum and strong smells.
Return the beef and tripe to the clean pot with 18 cups water, the onion, garlic, and 4 cut scallions. Bring it just to a boil, then lower the heat until the surface only trembles with small bubbles. Skim often for the first 20 minutes. A rolling boil makes a cloudy broth, and that belongs to another soup.
After 1 hour 45 minutes of gentle simmering, start checking the tripe. Pull it out when a chopstick pierces it with a little resistance, usually between 1 hour 45 minutes and 2 hours. At 2 hours 30 minutes, add the radish chunks. Start checking the beef at 3 hours 30 minutes; the brisket should yield but still slice cleanly, and the shank should be tender. Total simmering time is usually 3 hours 45 minutes to 4 hours.
Lift out the beef, tripe, and radish and rest them in a bowl with a ladle of broth so they do not dry out. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer and discard the onion, garlic, and cooked scallions. You should have about 11 to 12 cups broth. If you have more, simmer it uncovered until it tastes deep; if you have less, add a little boiling water. Skim the fat from the surface, then stir in 2 teaspoons fine sea salt and, if using, 1 teaspoon soup soy sauce. The broth should taste deliberately underseasoned because each bowl will be finished at the table.
Slice the brisket across the grain into 1/4-inch pieces. Cut the shank into bite-size pieces. Slice the tripe into short strips, following the honeycomb so each piece has some chew. Cut the radish into 1/3-inch half-moons. Put everything back into the strained broth. Knife work matters here; a long-simmered soup still eats badly if the meat is cut carelessly.
Bring the broth, meat, tripe, and radish back to a steady simmer for 5 to 8 minutes. For gukbap style, put 3/4 cup hot rice in each bowl before ladling in the soup; otherwise serve the rice alongside. Add about 1 1/2 cups broth to each bowl with a fair share of meat, tripe, and radish. Scatter sliced scallion and black pepper over the top. Set salt on the table and let each person add it 1/8 teaspoon at a time. A salty pot cannot be pulled back.
1 serving (about 850g)
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