
Chef Dimitra
Asia Minor Ekmek Kataifi (Εκμέκ Κανταΐφι)
Asia Minor ekmek kataifi is built in three clear layers: crisp syruped kataifi, thick semolina custard, and cold kaimaki cream under pistachios.
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Ioannina's Gianniotiko marries kataifi below and phyllo above, with walnuts between and cold syrup poured over the hot pastry until every layer knows its job.
Gianniotiko belongs to Ioannina, in Epirus: kataifi on the bottom, walnuts in the middle, phyllo sheets on top, all baked slowly and syruped like a proper celebration sweet. The region is the dish's surname. This is not baklava with a new name. It is Ioannina's clever marriage of two pastries, one wiry and one sheeted.
The method that decides it is air. You loosen the kataifi with your fingers and lay it down lightly, then you butter the phyllo sheet by sheet above it. Press the base flat and the syrup has nowhere to go. Leave it open and the sweet drinks evenly, crisp on top, tender underneath, with walnuts held between.
I like this dish because it tells the truth about good Greek kitchens: nothing useful is wasted. A baker with kataifi threads, phyllo sheets, walnuts, and butter makes a tray that can feed a name day table. I don't invent it. I find it, I test it, I write it down, so the next cook can make it without guessing.
Gianniotiko takes its name from Giannena, the common Greek name for Ioannina, a city whose Ottoman-period sweet shops worked with both phyllo and kataifi. The pastry reflects the Epirot habit of thrift in professional bakeries, where trimmings and remaining sheets could be layered into a new syrup sweet rather than discarded. Its identity comes from the two textures together: kataifi below, phyllo above, with a walnut layer between.
Quantity
250g
thawed and gently loosened
Quantity
250g
thawed
Quantity
250g
melted and clarified
Quantity
350g
coarsely chopped
Quantity
50g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
500g
Quantity
350ml
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 strip
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| kataifi pastrythawed and gently loosened | 250g |
| phyllo pastry sheetsthawed | 250g |
| unsalted sheep's or cow's buttermelted and clarified | 250g |
| walnutscoarsely chopped | 350g |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 50g |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| ground clove | 1/4 teaspoon |
| granulated sugar | 500g |
| water | 350ml |
| Greek honey | 80g |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| lemon peel | 1 strip |
| lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
Put the sugar, water, cinnamon stick, and lemon peel in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 6 minutes without stirring. Take it off the heat, stir in the honey and lemon juice, and let it cool completely. Cold syrup on hot pastry is the rule here, or the layers drink slowly and turn heavy.
Heat the oven to 160C. Butter a 30cm round tapsi or a 23 by 33cm baking pan. Keep the phyllo covered with a clean towel while you work, because dry phyllo cracks before it has a chance to become crisp.
Combine the walnuts, breadcrumbs, cinnamon, and clove in a bowl. The walnuts should be chopped, not ground to dust. You want pieces that hold between the two phyllos.
Pull the kataifi apart gently with your fingers until the strands are loose and airy. Spread it evenly across the buttered pan and drizzle with about 90g of the clarified butter. Do not press it flat. Gianniotiko needs that loose base so the syrup can pass through without making a paste.
Scatter the walnut mixture evenly over the kataifi. Pat it only enough to level it. This is a careful baker's sweet, not a thick nut brick.
Lay one phyllo sheet over the walnuts, brush with butter, and repeat until all the sheets are used. Tuck the edges neatly down the sides of the pan. Brush the top well with the remaining butter, especially the corners.
Score the top into 16 squares or diamonds, cutting through the phyllo but not dragging through the kataifi base. Bake for 65 to 75 minutes, until the top is deep gold and the pastry feels dry and light when you lift an edge with a knife.
As soon as the Gianniotiko comes from the oven, ladle the cold syrup evenly over it. It will sound fierce at first, then settle. Leave it uncovered for at least 4 hours, and better overnight, so the kataifi base and the phyllo top find their balance.
Cut again along the scored lines and serve at room temperature. The top should flake under the fork, the middle should hold walnuts, and the bottom should be syruped without collapsing.
1 serving (about 100g)
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