Gelado de Nata

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy-bottomed saucepan
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Ice cream maker (or shallow freezer pan)
• •Silicone mat or parchment paper for caramel
• •Instant-read thermometer (optional but helpful)

Instructions

1. 1

   Infuse the milk

   Combine the milk, cream, cinnamon stick, and lemon zest in a heavy saucepan. Heat over medium until it just begins to steam and small bubbles form at the edges. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep for 30 minutes. This is where the soul of the nata enters. The cinnamon and lemon are subtle, background notes, but they're what makes this taste like Portugal instead of plain vanilla.

   Don't skip the steeping. Rushing this step means a gelado that tastes like any other. The infusion is what separates memory from mere ice cream.
2. 2

   Make the custard base

   In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with 150g sugar until pale and thick, about 2 minutes. The mixture should fall in ribbons when you lift the whisk. Slowly pour the warm (not hot) infused milk into the yolks, whisking constantly. Go slowly at first, just a thin stream, to temper the eggs without scrambling them.

3. 3

   Cook the custard

   Return the mixture to the saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, reaching into the corners and across the bottom where it wants to catch. Cook until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon and holds a line when you draw your finger through it, about 8 to 10 minutes. It should register 82°C if you have a thermometer. The moment it's ready, remove from heat.

   If you see any lumps forming, the heat is too high. Pull the pan off immediately and whisk hard. You can strain it later, but better to never scramble it in the first place.
4. 4

   Strain and chill

   Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl, pressing gently to extract every bit. Discard the cinnamon stick and lemon zest. Stir in the vanilla and salt. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until completely cold, at least 4 hours or overnight. The colder the base, the better it churns.

5. 5

   Make the caramel ribbons

   While the custard chills, make the caramel. Combine 50g sugar and water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until it turns deep amber, about 5 minutes. Watch it carefully in the last minute. The color you want is like strong tea, almost burnt but not quite. Pour onto a silicone mat or parchment paper and let it harden completely. Once cool, break into shards and crush roughly with a rolling pin.

   The caramel should smell almost burnt, like the scorched tops of pastéis de nata. That's the flavor we're chasing. If your caramel is light brown, you stopped too soon.
6. 6

   Churn the gelado

   Pour the chilled custard into your ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions, usually 25 to 30 minutes. The gelado is ready when it holds soft peaks and looks like thick whipped cream. In the last minute of churning, add most of the crushed caramel, letting it ripple through.

7. 7

   Freeze and serve

   Transfer to a freezer-safe container, folding in any remaining caramel pieces. Press plastic wrap onto the surface and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. Before serving, let it sit at room temperature for 5 minutes to soften slightly. Scoop into bowls and dust with cinnamon. Close your eyes. You're in Belém.

Chef Tips

• •Use the best eggs you can find. The yolks should be deep orange, almost sunset-colored. Pale yolks make pale gelado. The color comes from what the hens ate, and it matters here.
• •If you don't have an ice cream maker, pour the custard into a shallow pan and freeze, stirring vigorously every 30 minutes for 3 to 4 hours. It won't be as smooth, but it will still taste like Portugal.
• •The caramel continues cooking from residual heat even after you remove it from the burner. Pull it slightly before you think it's ready. Better to add 10 more seconds than to have bitter, burnt sugar.
• •Some families add a splash of port to the custard. I've seen it in Porto, where they put port in everything. Try it if you like: 2 tablespoons, stirred in after straining.

Advance Preparation

• •The custard base must chill at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. This is not optional. Cold base churns better and develops better texture.
• •The caramel shards can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
• •The finished gelado keeps for up to 2 weeks in the freezer, though the texture is best in the first week.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 130g)