
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Gazpacho Extremeño is Extremadura's thicker cold soup, close to salmorejo but its own thing: bread, cooked egg yolk, pepper, onion, and pimentón, served cold and spoonable.
Gazpacho Extremeño belongs to Extremadura, and it isn't the Andaluz glass of tomato soup with cucumber. This one is thicker, closer to salmorejo in body, but the cooked egg yolk, pepper, onion, and pimentón give it its own hand. It should be cold, red, and spoonable, with enough bread to hold the oil, not so much that you feel you've blended a loaf.
The method that decides it is the yolk and oil. Mash the cooked yolks with garlic, salt, pimentón, vinegar, and soaked bread first, then let the olive oil go in slowly while the blender runs. That is what gives the soup its body. Pour the oil in all at once and it tastes heavy and separate; take half a minute and it turns smooth. Pésalo, no lo adivines.
Make it only when the tomatoes are worth eating raw. If you're far from Extremadura, use the ripest field tomatoes you can buy, or good canned whole peeled tomatoes only when fresh ones are poor; the flavour will be softer and less bright, but it will still make a proper cold soup. No cucumber here. That belongs to other gazpachos, not this one. Chill it hard, taste it cold, and serve with the chopped egg white and a little pepper and onion on top. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Gazpacho Extremeño comes from the hot inland kitchens and fields of Extremadura, where bread, garlic, oil, vinegar, and water were old working food before tomato made the soup red. The cooked egg yolk marks this version apart from the Andalusian gazpacho most people know, giving body to the bread-and-oil base and making a more filling cold dish for summer. In the same family sits cojondongo, especially tied to Badajoz, where the old gazpacho base is often served chunkier, almost halfway between soup and salad.
Quantity
900g
cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
120g
crusts removed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 small
seeded and chopped, with a little finely diced for serving
Quantity
60g
chopped, with a little finely diced for serving
Quantity
1 small clove
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
90ml, plus more to finish
Quantity
250ml, plus more as needed
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe tomatoescored and roughly chopped | 900g |
| day-old rustic white breadcrusts removed | 120g |
| large eggs | 2 |
| green pepperseeded and chopped, with a little finely diced for serving | 1 small |
| white onionchopped, with a little finely diced for serving | 60g |
| garlic | 1 small clove |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| vinagre de Jerez or good wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| extra virgin olive oil | 90ml, plus more to finish |
| cold water | 250ml, plus more as needed |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
Put the eggs in a small pan, cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and cook for 10 minutes. Cool them in cold water, peel them, and separate the yolks from the whites. Keep the whites for the garnish and set the yolks aside for the soup.
Tear the bread into pieces and soak it with 150ml of the cold water for 5 minutes, just until soft. Squeeze it lightly if it is dripping, but don't wring it dry. The bread is the body of the gazpacho; too dry and it won't blend smooth, too wet and the soup turns slack.
Put the tomatoes, chopped green pepper, onion, garlic, cooked egg yolks, soaked bread, pimentón, vinegar, salt, and the remaining 100ml cold water in a blender. Blend for 2 full minutes, until the mixture is smooth and the bread has disappeared into the tomato.
With the blender running, pour in the olive oil slowly in a thin stream. This is the step that matters: the yolk, bread, and oil need time to come together, so the gazpacho turns thick and silky instead of oily at the edges. Taste and add a splash more cold water only if it is too thick to spoon easily.
Chill for at least 2 hours. Taste again cold and adjust salt and vinegar, because the fridge dulls both. Finely chop the reserved egg whites and serve the gazpacho in shallow bowls with egg white, a little diced pepper and onion, and a thin thread of olive oil. No cucumber. It isn't missing.
1 serving (about 390g)
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