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Artichokes Braised in Olive Oil
Tender baby artichokes surrendered to good olive oil, garlic, and lemon, cooked low and slow until the leaves soften and the hearts turn silky. A dish that asks you to slow down.
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A simple act of faith in whatever the market offers: sturdy greens wilted quickly in good olive oil with sliced garlic, finished with sea salt and a squeeze of lemon. Nothing more, nothing hidden.
This is not really a recipe. It is a technique, a habit, a way of eating that follows you home from the farmers market with whatever greens looked best that morning.
Some weeks it is chard with those ruby stems. Other weeks, a bundle of Tuscan kale so dark it is almost black. Sometimes the farmer has escarole, slightly bitter and sturdy. Or spinach so tender it wilts the moment it touches heat. The greens change. The method stays the same.
Good olive oil, sliced garlic cooked until fragrant but not brown, then the greens, turned and wilted until they surrender but still have color and life. A pinch of salt. A squeeze of lemon. That is all. The technique gets out of the way so the greens can taste of what they are.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. When you buy greens from someone who grew them, washed the soil from the roots, and drove them to market before dawn, you are keeping that farm alive. The greens taste better for it. Connection is a seasoning you cannot buy.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
chard, kale, escarole, or spinach
Quantity
4 tablespoons, plus more for finishing
Quantity
4 cloves
sliced thin
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1/2
for squeezing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed hearty greenschard, kale, escarole, or spinach | 1 1/2 pounds |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 4 tablespoons, plus more for finishing |
| garlicsliced thin | 4 cloves |
| red pepper flakes (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| lemonfor squeezing | 1/2 |
Fill your sink with cold water and submerge the greens completely, swishing them around to release any grit hiding in the leaves. Lift them out and let them drain in a colander, but do not spin them bone dry. A little water clinging to the leaves will create steam in the hot pan and help them wilt evenly. Tear large leaves into manageable pieces. Remove thick stems from kale or chard and save them for another use.
Set a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers slightly, add the sliced garlic. Cook slowly, stirring often, until the garlic turns pale gold and releases its fragrance into the oil, about two minutes. Watch it closely. Garlic moves from golden to burnt in seconds, and burnt garlic tastes only of regret.
Add a large handful of greens to the pan, tossing with tongs to coat them in the garlicky oil. As they begin to wilt and shrink, add another handful. Continue until all the greens are in the pan. If using kale or heartier greens, add a splash of water (two tablespoons is enough) and cover the pan briefly to help them steam and soften.
Sprinkle with sea salt and red pepper flakes if using. Continue cooking and turning the greens until they are tender but still have some life in them, three to five minutes depending on what you brought home. Spinach wilts in a minute. Kale and escarole need longer. Taste a piece. The greens should be silky, not squeaky, but never mushy.
Remove the pan from heat. Squeeze the lemon half over the greens and drizzle with a generous swirl of fresh olive oil. Taste again and adjust salt. Transfer to a warm serving dish and bring to the table immediately. These greens are alive when they leave the pan. Do not let them wait.
1 serving (about 170g)
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