
Chef Lupita
Churros de Coatepec
Veracruz's coffee-town churros, piped into long ridges, fried until crisp outside and tender within, then rolled in canela sugar and served with thick chocolate from the highland table.
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Veracruz's mountain-town cookie from Xico, built with manteca, butter, sugar, flour, and Papantla vanilla into a firm golden crumb made for dunking in Coatepec coffee.
Veracruz, the mountain corridor between Xalapa, Coatepec, and Xico, is where these cookies live. Not the port. Not the beach postcard. The cool, green highlands where coffee dries, vanilla perfumes the markets, and pan dulce sits in palm baskets behind glass cases.
La Duquesita in Xico is part of that bakery memory. These galletas are firm, golden, and practical: flour, sugar, manteca de cerdo, a little butter, egg yolk, and vanilla from the land that made Mexican vanilla famous. They are not delicate tea cookies. They are built to be dunked in café de Coatepec without falling apart like wet paper.
I learned this kind of dough from panaderas who measure fat by feel and still know when flour has taken enough. The manteca shortens the crumb. The butter perfumes it. The sugar on top gives the small crackle before the cookie gives way. No me vengas con atajos. If you remove the manteca, you remove the Veracruz panadería logic.
Serve them on a blue-and-white talavera plate with café lechero in a tall glass. That border between Puebla ceramic and Veracruz table is exactly right for this region. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Xico sits in Veracruz's central highlands near Coatepec, one of Mexico's most important coffee regions since coffee cultivation expanded there in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Veracruz is also the historical home of Papantla vanilla, cultivated by Totonac communities long before Spanish colonization and later traded through colonial baking traditions. The firm lard-and-flour cookie belongs to the panadería economy that grew around coffee towns: inexpensive, durable, sweet enough, and made to last several days in a household tin.
Quantity
3 cups
plus more for dusting
Quantity
1 cup
room temperature
Quantity
1/2 cup
room temperature
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2
Quantity
2 teaspoons
preferably Papantla vanilla
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
only if the dough feels dry
Quantity
1/4 cup
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 3 cups |
| pork lard (manteca de cerdo)room temperature | 1 cup |
| unsalted butterroom temperature | 1/2 cup |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup |
| large egg yolks | 2 |
| Mexican vanilla extractpreferably Papantla vanilla | 2 teaspoons |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| whole milk (optional)only if the dough feels dry | 2 tablespoons |
| granulated sugar for finishing | 1/4 cup |
Heat the oven to 350F. Line two baking sheets with parchment. These cookies need even heat, not drama. A Veracruz panadería oven gives steady color. Your home oven has to do the same work.
Whisk the flour, salt, and baking powder together in a bowl. Do this before the fat is creamed so the dough comes together quickly. Overworked flour makes a hard cookie in the wrong way. This cookie should be firm, sandy, and clean under the teeth.
Beat the manteca de cerdo and butter with the sugar until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes by mixer or 5 minutes by hand with a wooden spoon. The lard gives the cookie its short crumb. The butter gives aroma. Do not replace the manteca with oil. Oil cannot hold air, and the cookie will bake heavy. La manteca es el sabor.
Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then add the Mexican vanilla. If you have Papantla vanilla, use it. Veracruz knows vanilla because vanilla belongs to this land. The dough should smell warm and floral before the flour ever touches it.
Add the dry ingredients in two additions and mix only until the flour disappears. Pinch the dough. It should hold together without sticking to your fingers. If it crumbles like dry sand, add milk one teaspoon at a time. Not a splash. A teaspoon. Panadería dough teaches discipline.
Roll the dough into balls the size of a large walnut, about 1 1/2 tablespoons each. Flatten each one gently into a thick disk, about 1/2 inch tall. Press the top with the tines of a fork or the bottom of a patterned glass if you want the old bakery look. Coat the tops lightly with sugar.
Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the edges are golden and the tops look dry and set. Do not wait for deep brown tops. These are not American sugar cookies. They should bake firm enough to hold up in coffee, with a pale gold face and a deeper gold edge.
Let the cookies rest on the pan for 10 minutes before moving them to a rack. They finish setting as they cool. Eat one warm if you want, but judge the cookie after it cools. The crumb should be firm, sandy, and ready for café de Coatepec. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 30g)
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