
Chef Klaus
Bienenstich
Bienenstich works when the almond top caramelises without burning and the yeast cake cools before the cream goes in. Rush either one and the bee has stung you.
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Frankfurt's celebration cake looks grand, but the work is plain: a ring cake, cool pudding buttercream, sharp red jam, and nut brittle toasted properly.
Frankfurter Kranz belongs to the coffee table when someone has a birthday, a confirmation, or a Sunday worth marking. Frankfurt gives it the crown shape, the buttercream, the red jam, and the Krokant, the chopped nut brittle, standing in for gold. It is Konditorei cake, yes, but it should still taste like a cake a serious home cook can set down without fuss.
The argument starts as soon as you cut it. Some bake a light sponge ring, others a tighter butter sponge. Some use redcurrant jelly for the sharpness, others raspberry jam because it is easier to find. Hazelnut Krokant is common, almond Krokant is neater and paler. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders, and even in Hesse the family table has opinions.
The buttercream decides whether this works. Use German pudding buttercream, not a greasy block of sweet butter. The cooked vanilla pudding and the butter must be the same room temperature before you beat them together, because cold pudding seizes the butter and warm pudding melts it into soup. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Toast the Krokant darker than you think. Pale brittle tastes only of sugar; properly amber brittle tastes of nuts, caramel, and a little bitterness against the cream. Nicht aus dem Glas applies here too: real jam, real buttercream, real brittle. Das braucht seine Zeit.
Frankfurter Kranz is recorded in Frankfurt am Main from the eighteenth century and was shaped as a ring to echo a royal crown, with Krokant as the gold and red cherries as jewels. The cake became a standard of German Konditorei culture in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, especially for birthdays and afternoon coffee tables. Its regional identity is unusually clear: the name belongs to Frankfurt, but the filling and nut coating vary from bakery to bakery across Hesse and beyond.
Quantity
250g
softened, plus more for the tin
Quantity
220g
Quantity
1 tablespoon vanilla sugar or 1 teaspoon extract
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
5
at room temperature
Quantity
250g
Quantity
50g
Quantity
12g
Quantity
3 tablespoons
at room temperature
Quantity
500ml
Quantity
45g
Quantity
40g
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 bean or 2 teaspoons extract
Quantity
250g
room temperature
Quantity
200g
Quantity
150g
chopped
Quantity
120g
Quantity
30g
Quantity
12
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttersoftened, plus more for the tin | 250g |
| sugar | 220g |
| vanilla sugar or vanilla extract | 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar or 1 teaspoon extract |
| fine salt | 1 pinch |
| large eggsat room temperature | 5 |
| plain flour | 250g |
| cornflour | 50g |
| baking powder | 12g |
| milkat room temperature | 3 tablespoons |
| whole milk | 500ml |
| sugar for pudding | 45g |
| cornflour for pudding | 40g |
| egg yolks | 2 |
| vanilla bean or vanilla extract | 1 bean or 2 teaspoons extract |
| unsalted butter for buttercreamroom temperature | 250g |
| redcurrant jelly or raspberry jam | 200g |
| hazelnuts or almondschopped | 150g |
| sugar for Krokant | 120g |
| butter for Krokant | 30g |
| candied cherries | 12 |
Heat the oven to 175C. Butter and flour a 24cm ring tin well, because the crown shape only looks clever if it comes out in one piece. Beat the butter, sugar, vanilla, and salt until pale, then beat in the eggs one at a time; room-temperature eggs blend into the fat instead of curdling it. Fold in the flour, cornflour, and baking powder with the milk, spoon into the tin, and bake 40 to 45 minutes until a skewer comes out clean. Cool the cake completely before slicing, because warm crumb tears under the knife.
Whisk a little of the milk with the sugar, cornflour, yolks, and vanilla until smooth, then bring the rest of the milk just to a simmer. Whisk the hot milk into the yolk mixture, return everything to the pan, and cook until thick and bubbling for a full minute. That minute cooks out the starch taste and sets the pudding firmly enough to hold butter. Press film directly on the surface and let it cool to room temperature.
Melt the sugar in a wide pan until amber, then stir in the butter and chopped nuts. Keep it moving until the nuts smell toasted and the caramel is a shade darker than honey; pale Krokant tastes flat, and this cake needs the bitter edge. Scrape it onto baking paper, let it set, then chop it fine enough to cling to the cream but not so fine that it turns to dust.
Beat the room-temperature butter until light, then spoon in the room-temperature pudding a little at a time. Same temperature, or it splits. If the cream looks curdled, keep beating gently; if it is too cold, warm the bowl briefly with your hands and beat again. German buttercream should be smooth, pale, and able to hold a ridge from the spatula.
Cut the cooled ring horizontally into three even layers. Warm the redcurrant jelly or raspberry jam just until spreadable, because a thin sharp layer cuts the buttercream instead of dragging the crumb. Spread jam on the lower two layers, then a thin layer of buttercream over each, stacking the ring back into its crown shape.
Cover the outside and inside of the ring with buttercream, keeping back enough to pipe 12 small rosettes on top. Press the Krokant over the sides and top while the cream is still soft, so it grips. Pipe the rosettes, set a candied cherry on each, and chill the cake at least 2 hours. Let it stand 20 minutes before slicing, because cold buttercream tastes muted and cuts like wax. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
1 serving (about 155g)
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