
Chef Klaus
Butterkuchen
North Germany's Freud-und-Leid-Kuchen, the cake for joy and sorrow both: a yeast sheet pressed full of cold butter, sugar, and almonds until the top turns crisp.
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Bienenstich works when the almond top caramelises without burning and the yeast cake cools before the cream goes in. Rush either one and the bee has stung you.
Bienenstich belongs to Kaffee und Kuchen, the afternoon coffee table, and it has its strongest story on the Rhine around Andernach. It isn't feast-day grand. It's a yeast-dough tray cake with a honey-almond roof and vanilla cream in the middle, which means it can sit on a Sunday table without behaving like a wedding cake.
The arguments are real. Some bakers make it as a round cake, many make it vom Blech, from the tray. Some fill it with buttercream, others with a lighter vanilla pudding cream folded with whipped cream. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders, and in every Konditorei the baker thinks the shop next door is wrong. I use yeast dough and a pudding cream because the cake stays clean to cut and still eats like home baking.
The technique that decides it is the almond topping. Cook the butter, sugar, honey, and cream only until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture looks glossy, then spread it gently over the risen dough. Boil it hard in the pot and it burns in the oven; spread it rough and you knock the air out of the dough. The oven finishes the caramel. That's its job.
Let the cake cool completely before you split and fill it. Warm crumb melts cream, and then you've made pudding under a roof. Das braucht seine Zeit. Cut the almond top into portions before serving so the knife doesn't crush the cream. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
The best-known Bienenstich story places the name in Andernach on the Rhine in 1474, when apprentice bakers were said to have thrown beehives from the town wall during a feud with Linz am Rhein, then baked a celebratory cake. The tale is folklore rather than a recipe record, but it fixes the cake strongly in the Rhenish imagination. The modern Bienenstich is a Konditorei and home-baking cake of the German coffee table: yeast dough, caramelised almonds, and a vanilla cream filling, with regional disputes mostly over tray versus round form and buttercream versus pudding cream.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
21g fresh / 7g instant
Quantity
200ml
lukewarm
Quantity
70g
Quantity
1
Quantity
80g
softened
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
100g
for the almond topping
Quantity
100g
for the almond topping
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
150g
Quantity
500ml
Quantity
1 bean / 2 teaspoons
Quantity
80g
for the filling
Quantity
40g
Quantity
3
Quantity
250ml
cold
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 500g |
| fresh yeast or instant yeast | 21g fresh / 7g instant |
| milklukewarm | 200ml |
| sugar | 70g |
| egg | 1 |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 80g |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon |
| unsalted butterfor the almond topping | 100g |
| sugarfor the almond topping | 100g |
| honey | 2 tablespoons |
| cream | 3 tablespoons |
| sliced almonds | 150g |
| whole milk | 500ml |
| vanilla bean or vanilla extract | 1 bean / 2 teaspoons |
| sugarfor the filling | 80g |
| cornstarch | 40g |
| egg yolks | 3 |
| whipping creamcold | 250ml |
Warm the milk to blood heat, no hotter, because hot milk kills yeast before it can lift the dough. Mix the yeast with the milk and a spoon of the sugar, then work in the flour, remaining sugar, egg, soft butter, and salt until you have a smooth, elastic dough. Knead it until it pulls cleanly from the bowl; weak kneading gives you a tight cake, not the soft crumb that has to hold the cream.
Cover the dough and leave it warm until doubled, about 60 to 75 minutes. Don't watch the clock harder than the dough. Yeast works by warmth and mood, not by your impatience, and doubled dough bakes light while under-risen dough stays dense under the almond roof.
Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and a splash of the milk until smooth, because dry starch lumps later and then no sieve saves your pride. Heat the remaining milk with the vanilla, whisk it into the yolk mixture, then return everything to the pan and cook until thick and glossy. Boil it for one full minute while whisking; cornstarch needs that heat to set properly and lose its raw taste.
Line a 30x40cm rimmed baking sheet and press or roll the risen dough evenly into it. Keep the thickness even to the corners, because a thin corner burns before the middle has baked through. Cover and let it rise again for 25 to 30 minutes, until puffy but still able to carry the topping.
Melt the butter, sugar, honey, and cream together until the sugar dissolves and the mixture turns glossy, then stir in the almonds and take it off the heat. Do not cook it dark in the pan. The oven still has work to do, and a topping that starts brown will finish bitter.
Spoon the warm almond mixture over the risen dough and spread it lightly with the back of a spoon, touching it as little as possible so you don't press out the yeast lift. Bake at 180C for 25 to 30 minutes, until the edges are golden, the middle springs back, and the almonds are amber with a crisp glossy finish. Watch the last five minutes. Honey goes from golden to burned while you are looking for a plate.
Cool the cake completely in the tin, then lift it out and cut it into two long slabs or into manageable rectangles before splitting each piece horizontally. A cold cake cuts cleanly; a warm cake tears and melts the filling. Use a serrated knife and let the teeth do the work, because pressing down cracks the almond top.
Whisk the chilled custard smooth, whip the cold cream to soft peaks, and fold the two together so the filling is light but still strong enough to slice. Spread it over the bottom layer, set the almond top back on, and chill the cake at least one hour so the cream firms. Cut with a serrated knife through the almond crust first, then down through the cream. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
1 serving (about 175g)
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