
Chef Klaus
Berliner Kartoffelsalat
The capital's creamy potato salad, built on warm waxy potatoes that drink the dressing before mayonnaise binds the bowl, with pickle, onion, and egg doing the sharpening.
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No hare, no apology: a Prussian thrift roast of seasoned mince wrapped around hard-boiled eggs, baked until the crust browns and the slices hold clean.
Falscher Hase is the roast you make when there is no hare, which is most weeks. It sits in the Prussian and eastern German kitchen as a thrift roast, a Hackbraten, meatloaf, dressed for Sunday with hard-boiled eggs through the middle. On a weeknight it feeds the table with potatoes and pickles. On Sunday it gets red cabbage and a proper pan sauce. Nicht aus dem Glas.
The regions split on the hand in it. In Prussia and Saxony, you often see the eggs hidden whole through the centre, so every slice shows a pale yellow eye. Further south, the meatloaf may be looser, richer with soaked rolls and sometimes wrapped in bacon. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This one keeps the eastern thrift logic: pork and beef, stale bread, onion, mustard, egg, and the pan doing its work.
The technique that decides it is the binding. Soak the stale roll properly, then squeeze it dry before it goes into the mince. Wet bread makes a slack loaf that leaks and crumbles; dry squeezed bread catches the meat juices and holds the slice together. Mix only until the meat turns tacky under your hand, then stop, or the roast eats tight and rubbery.
Shape it firmly around the eggs and bake it uncovered so the outside browns before the inside overcooks. The sauce comes from the tray, stock, browned onion, and the crust stuck to the pan. Weggeworfen wird nichts. That's the flavour you already paid for.
Falscher Hase belongs to the German family of mock roasts that became common in middle-class and working kitchens by the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when minced meat and stale bread could imitate the form of a more expensive game roast. The name, false hare, points both to the long oval shape of a hare roast and to the thrift of serving a Sunday-looking dish without wild game. It is especially associated with Prussian, Saxon, and eastern German cooking, though related Hackbraten versions spread across the country with regional changes in seasoning, bacon, and sauce.
Quantity
4
3 hard-boiled and peeled, 1 raw
Quantity
1, about 60g
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 medium
finely diced
Quantity
700g
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
plus more if needed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 small
diced
Quantity
1 small
sliced
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon starch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggs3 hard-boiled and peeled, 1 raw | 4 |
| stale white bread roll | 1, about 60g |
| whole milk | 120ml |
| lard or neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| onionfinely diced | 1 medium |
| mixed minced pork and beef | 700g |
| German medium-hot mustard | 2 teaspoons |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sweet paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| dried marjoram | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine dry breadcrumbsplus more if needed | 2 tablespoons |
| butter | 1 tablespoon |
| carrotdiced | 1 small |
| onion for the saucesliced | 1 small |
| beef stock | 250ml |
| dark beer or water | 100ml |
| tomato paste | 1 teaspoon |
| potato starch slurry (optional) | 1 teaspoon starch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water |
Tear the stale roll into pieces and soak it in the milk for 10 minutes, then squeeze it hard in your fist until it is damp, not dripping. The bread is there to hold meat juice, not pour milk into the loaf; leave it wet and the roast splits and weeps in the oven.
Warm the lard in a small pan and cook the diced onion gently until soft and pale gold, then let it cool. Raw onion stays sharp inside a meatloaf and pushes water into the mince; cooked onion gives sweetness and keeps the slice clean.
Put the mince, squeezed bread, cooled onion, raw egg, mustard, salt, pepper, paprika, marjoram, and breadcrumbs in a bowl. Mix with your hand until the meat feels tacky and holds together when pressed, then stop. That tackiness is the protein binding; keep working after that and you build a tight little brick. Das ist kein Bierzelt.
Heat the oven to 180C. Pat half the meat mixture into a long oval in a buttered roasting dish, lay the 3 hard-boiled eggs end to end down the centre, then cover with the remaining meat and seal the sides firmly. Press out air pockets around the eggs because trapped air opens cracks, and cracks let the juices run where they should stay.
Scatter the carrot and sliced onion around the loaf, dot the loaf with butter, and stir the tomato paste into the vegetables. The vegetables and paste brown in the tray and give the sauce its base; without them you are boiling stock and calling it gravy. Nicht aus dem Glas.
Bake uncovered for 45 minutes, until the crust is browned and the loaf feels firm. Pour the stock and dark beer or water around the loaf, not over the crust, and bake another 15 to 20 minutes, until the centre reaches 70C. Liquid goes in late so the crust has time to form; add it too early and the loaf stews pale.
Lift the loaf to a board and rest it 10 minutes before slicing, because the juices need to settle back into the meat or they run across the board. Scrape the browned tray bits into the liquid, strain into a small pan, and simmer until rounded. Thicken with a little potato starch slurry if it needs body, then taste for salt and pepper. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.
1 serving (about 240g)
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