
Chef Klaus
Berliner Kartoffelsuppe
The capital's winter soup is built from stored roots, smoked bacon, and floury potatoes, then crushed in the pot so the broth turns thick without cream or a packet.
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The capital's creamy potato salad, built on warm waxy potatoes that drink the dressing before mayonnaise binds the bowl, with pickle, onion, and egg doing the sharpening.
Berliner Kartoffelsalat belongs to the city table: potluck, picnic, weekday supper, the bowl carried to the balcony or set beside cold cuts and rye. Berlin leans creamy, with mayonnaise, pickle, onion, and egg. Swabia and Bavaria argue back with warm broth, vinegar, and oil, no mayonnaise in sight. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. Good. German potato salad has never had one national version.
The technique is simple and easy to ruin: peel and slice the potatoes while they're still warm, then season them first with vinegar, pickle brine, onion, mustard, salt, and a little potato cooking water. Warm potato is open and thirsty; cold potato is shut and takes dressing only on the outside. Mayonnaise goes in after the potatoes have cooled to warm, not hot, because heat makes it greasy and loose.
Use waxy potatoes, the kind that slice cleanly and hold their edges. A floury potato falls apart and gives you mash with pickles in it. Let the salad rest at least an hour, because the onion softens, the pickle sharpens the cream, and the potatoes stop tasting separate from the dressing. Das braucht seine Zeit, even for a cold salad.
The potato became a German staple in the eighteenth century, pushed hardest in Prussia under Frederick II, whose 1756 potato order tried to force wider planting after grain failures and war shortages. Berlin's creamy potato salad reflects the capital's nineteenth and twentieth century cold-table cooking, where boiled potatoes, pickled cucumbers, eggs, and mayonnaise fit the urban larder and could be made ahead. The regional split remains clear: northern and eastern versions often use mayonnaise or cream, while Swabian and Bavarian cooks bind warm slices with broth, vinegar, and oil.
Quantity
1.2kg
similar size
Quantity
3 large
Quantity
150g
Quantity
120g
finely diced
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
very finely diced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for the potato water
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
snipped
Quantity
1 small
finely diced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoessimilar size | 1.2kg |
| eggs | 3 large |
| mayonnaise | 150g |
| Gewürzgurken, German pickled cucumbersfinely diced | 120g |
| pickle brine | 3 tablespoons |
| white onionvery finely diced | 1 small |
| medium German mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| white wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| reserved potato cooking water | 3 tablespoons |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more for the potato water |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| chivessnipped | 2 tablespoons |
| tart apple (optional)finely diced | 1 small |
Put the unpeeled potatoes in a pot, cover with cold water, salt it well, and bring it up gently. Starting cold cooks the potatoes evenly to the centre; drop them into boiling water and the outside softens before the middle is done. Simmer until a knife slides in with only a little resistance, 20 to 25 minutes depending on size.
Lower the eggs into simmering water and cook them 9 minutes, then cool them in cold water so the yolks set without turning chalky. Peel and chop them roughly; they should stay visible in the salad, not disappear into paste.
Drain the potatoes, saving a little cooking water, then let them stand just until you can handle them. Peel them warm and slice them 5mm thick into a wide bowl. Warm slices drink seasoning; cold slices sit there like coins in sauce.
Stir the vinegar, pickle brine, mustard, sugar, salt, pepper, onion, and warm potato water together, then spoon it over the warm potatoes and fold gently. The onion softens in the acid, the brine sharpens the potato, and the cooking water loosens the starch just enough to help the dressing cling. Let it stand 15 minutes.
When the potatoes are warm but no longer hot, fold in the mayonnaise and oil. Not before. Hot potatoes make mayonnaise split and turn heavy; warm potatoes take the flavour and still keep the dressing smooth. Fold with a broad spoon from the edge to the middle so the slices stay whole.
Fold in the diced pickles, chopped eggs, chives, and apple if using. Cover and rest the salad at least 1 hour in the refrigerator, then taste again before serving because potatoes swallow salt as they sit. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss. Add a spoon more pickle brine if it tastes flat.
1 serving (about 335g)
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