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Berliner Kartoffelsuppe

Berliner Kartoffelsuppe

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The capital's winter soup is built from stored roots, smoked bacon, and floury potatoes, then crushed in the pot so the broth turns thick without cream or a packet.

Soups & Stews
German
Weeknight
Budget Friendly
Make Ahead
20 min
Active Time
50 min cook1 hr 10 min total
Yield6 servings

Berliner Kartoffelsuppe belongs to the cold months and to the city table: weeknight food, cheap food, and still worth doing properly. Berlin and Brandenburg make it from the winter larder, potatoes, carrots, celery, leek, smoked bacon, and marjoram. In the north it can stay clearer and sharper, with more leek and smoked pork. In the south, an Erdäpfelsuppe may be smoother, creamier, and touched with caraway. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This is the Berlin pot.

The technique is simple and it decides the soup. Cook floury potatoes until they begin to break at the edges, then mash only part of them in the broth. The broken potato gives body because its starch thickens the liquid; leave every cube whole and you've made broth with vegetables, puree everything and you've made paste. Half crushed, half left standing. That's the spoonful you want.

Start the bacon slowly so the fat comes out before the vegetables go in. If you scorch the onion early, the whole pot tastes bitter under the marjoram. The rind goes in too if you've got it, then comes out at the end, because Weggeworfen wird nichts, nothing gets thrown away when it can give flavour first.

Finish with sausage if you like, Bockwurst or Wiener warmed gently in the soup, not boiled to rubber. Taste at the end, after the bacon and sausage have spoken. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss. Better still, cook it today and eat it tomorrow. Das braucht seine Zeit, even on a weeknight.

The potato became a Prussian staple only after hard official pressure in the 18th century, especially under Frederick II, who issued potato orders in the 1740s and 1750s to push cultivation after grain failures. Berlin and Brandenburg turned the stored winter potato into everyday soups built with Suppengrün, the bundled soup roots of carrot, celery, parsley root, and leek, plus smoked pork from the larder. The dish shows the practical city version of Prussian thrift: not a feast dish, but a pot that made cheap roots, bacon rind, and yesterday's stock feed a household well.

The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.

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Ingredients

smoked bacon or Bauchspeck

Quantity

200g

diced, rind reserved if present

neutral oil or lard (optional)

Quantity

1 tablespoon

onions

Quantity

2

finely diced

carrots

Quantity

2

diced

celeriac or celery stalks

Quantity

150g celeriac or 2 stalks

diced

parsley root or parsnip

Quantity

1

diced

leek

Quantity

1

split, washed, and sliced

floury potatoes

Quantity

1.2kg

peeled and cut into 2cm cubes

light stock

Quantity

1.5L

bay leaves

Quantity

2

dried marjoram

Quantity

1 teaspoon

plus more to finish

black pepper

Quantity

1/2 teaspoon

freshly ground

Bockwurst or Wiener sausages (optional)

Quantity

4

sliced or left whole

salt

Quantity

to taste

flat-leaf parsley

Quantity

1 tablespoon

chopped

Equipment Needed

  • Heavy 5L soup pot or Dutch oven
  • Potato masher
  • Sharp knife

Instructions

  1. 1

    Render the bacon

    Put the bacon in a heavy pot over medium-low heat and let it give up its fat slowly, 8 to 10 minutes. Slow heat melts the fat before the meat hardens, so the vegetables cook in smoke and pork instead of dry heat. If the bacon is lean, add the oil or lard. Drop in the rind too if you have it; it will season the broth and come out later.

  2. 2

    Sweat the roots

    Add the onions, carrots, celeriac, parsley root, and leek with a pinch of salt and cook until the onion is glassy and the leek has softened, about 8 minutes. Keep the heat moderate. Browned roots belong in other pots; here they should sweeten the broth without making it taste scorched.

  3. 3

    Simmer the potatoes

    Add the potatoes, stock, bay leaves, marjoram, and pepper. Bring it just to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes, until the potatoes break at the edges when pressed against the pot. A hard boil knocks the vegetables ragged before the potato starch has thickened the broth properly. Runter mit der Temperatur.

  4. 4

    Mash for body

    Remove the bacon rind and bay leaves. Use a potato masher to crush about a third to half of the potatoes right in the pot, leaving plenty of cubes whole. The crushed potatoes release starch and thicken the soup; the whole pieces keep it from turning into glue. Nicht aus dem Glas, and not from a packet either.

  5. 5

    Warm the sausage

    Add the Bockwurst or Wiener and warm them gently for 5 minutes without boiling. Sausage already cooked once only needs heat; boiling tightens the casing and pushes out the fat, and then you've made rubber in a good soup.

  6. 6

    Finish and rest

    Taste only now, then add salt if the bacon and sausage have not done enough. Rub a pinch more marjoram between your fingers over the pot and stir in the parsley. Let the soup stand 10 minutes before serving, because potato starch thickens as it settles and the smoke, roots, and herb come together.

Chef Tips

  • Use floury potatoes, the kind that fall apart when boiled. Waxy potatoes stay neat and stubborn, and neat is not what thickens this soup.
  • Save the bacon rind. Simmered in the pot, it gives smoke and gelatine, then comes out before serving. Weggeworfen wird nichts.
  • Marjoram is the herb here, not a handful of everything green in the drawer. Add most of it during simmering for depth, then a pinch at the end so it still smells alive.
  • The soup is better the next day. Potato starch settles, the smoked bacon moves through the broth, and the whole pot tastes less like separate ingredients.

Advance Preparation

  • Cook the soup one day ahead, cool it quickly, and refrigerate it covered. Reheat it gently and loosen with a splash of stock or water because potato soup thickens overnight.
  • Chop the Suppengrün, the soup vegetables, up to a day ahead and keep them covered in the refrigerator. Do not cut the potatoes early unless you hold them in cold water, or they brown and lose surface starch.
  • Leftovers keep 3 days refrigerated. Warm them slowly and stir often, because thick potato soup catches on the bottom before it looks hot on top.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 610g)

Calories
475 calories
Total Fat
23 g
Saturated Fat
8 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
13 g
Cholesterol
60 mg
Sodium
1690 mg
Total Carbohydrates
45 g
Dietary Fiber
6 g
Sugars
7 g
Protein
22 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

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