
Chef Makoa
Faʻalifu Talo (Sāmoan Taro in Coconut Cream)
Sāmoa’s talo, peeled and simmered until it gives, then folded through salted coconut cream until every piece drinks deep and shines.
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Sāmoa's everyday faʻalifu faʻi takes green cooking bananas, firm from the pot, and lets salted peʻepeʻe (coconut cream) settle around them with onion. Simple food, canoe-crop comfort, ready for a weeknight table.
ASāmoan auntie taught me this kind of food without making a speech. She set the pot in the middle of the table, faʻi (green cooking bananas) sitting heavy in peʻepeʻe (fresh coconut cream), onion softened through it, and told the younger ones, eat. That's how this dish talks. No big show. Just fanua (land), aiga (family), meaʻai (food), and a starch strong enough to carry the meal.
This is Sāmoa's bowl, and I cook it open-handed, the way I'd want my cousins to speak about kalo back home. Across the Triangle, coconut cream holds food the way family holds people: Sāmoan palusami, Tongan lū, Cook Islands rukau, Tahitian fāfā, Hawaiian laulau. Back home we know maiʻa (banana) too, but this hand is faʻalifu, the Sāmoan way of finishing a starch in coconut cream until the pot tastes like the people gathered around it.
The why is simple. Green banana has firmness and a little bite, so you boil it first until it gives but doesn't fall apart. Then the coconut cream comes low and slow, never angry, with salt and onion, and it turns the plain starch into comfort. Squeeze the cream fresh if you can. A good can works on a weeknight. No need make it precious. Just don't rush the part that carries the soul.
Faʻalifu is a Sāmoan cooking word for finishing food in coconut cream, used with faʻi (green cooking banana), talo (taro), ulu (breadfruit), and other starches from the family pot. Bananas moved into western Polynesia with the old voyaging plant world from Island Southeast Asia, while coconut cream became a shared language from Sāmoan palusami to Tongan lū, Cook Islands rukau, Tahitian fāfā, and Hawaiian laulau. In the mission and plantation centuries, rice, bread, corned beef, and sapasui joined the Sāmoan table, but faʻalifu faʻi stayed everyday home food, the kind that proves old foodways live in weeknight pots too.
Quantity
8 large, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds
Quantity
enough to cover by 1 inch
Quantity
2 teaspoons, divided
plus more to taste
Quantity
2 cups
or 1 1/2 cups thick canned coconut cream plus 1/2 cup water
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/2 cup
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| green cooking bananas (faʻi) | 8 large, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds |
| water | enough to cover by 1 inch |
| sea saltplus more to taste | 2 teaspoons, divided |
| fresh coconut cream (peʻepeʻe)or 1 1/2 cups thick canned coconut cream plus 1/2 cup water | 2 cups |
| yellow or white onionthinly sliced | 1 small |
| reserved banana cooking wateras needed | 1/2 cup |
Rub a little oil on your hands or wear gloves, because green banana sap likes to mark you. Cut off the ends, slit each skin lengthwise, and pull the peel away with your thumb or a small knife. Drop the peeled faʻi, the green cooking bananas, into cold water as you work so they don't darken before the pot is ready.
Put the peeled bananas in a heavy pot and cover with water by about an inch. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, bring to a steady simmer, and cook 15 to 20 minutes, until a small knife slides in but the pieces still hold their shape. You want tender, not collapsed. The coconut cream still has to meet them.
While the bananas cook, stir the peʻepeʻe, the coconut cream, with the sliced onion and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. If you're using canned coconut cream and it is very thick, loosen it with a little warm cooking water. It should coat a spoon, not run away thin.
Drain the bananas, saving about 1/2 cup of the cooking water, and return them to the pot over low heat. Pour in the coconut cream and onion, then gently turn the bananas so they are coated without breaking. Simmer softly for 5 to 8 minutes, spooning the cream over them, until the onion softens and the sauce clings glossy and white around each piece.
Take the pot off the heat and let it sit 5 minutes, so the faʻi drinks a little of the salted cream. Taste and adjust the salt, then spoon everything into a wide bowl with the onion and coconut cream pooled around it. Serve warm, family-style, beside fish, palusami, sapasui, roast pork, or whatever the table has that night. Eat what you have.
1 serving (about 250g)
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