Ensopado de Borrego

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy clay pot (púcara) or 6-liter Dutch oven
• •Deep serving bowls for the bread

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the lamb

   Pat the lamb pieces dry and season generously with coarse salt and black pepper. Let them sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Cold meat shocks the pan. Room temperature meat browns properly.

2. 2

   Brown the lamb

   Heat half the azeite in a heavy clay pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Working in batches, brown the lamb on all sides until deeply golden, about 4 minutes per side. Don't crowd the pot. Crowding creates steam, and steam doesn't brown. Transfer to a plate as each batch finishes.

   Avó Leonor used a clay pot that had been in the family for three generations. If you don't have clay, cast iron will do. But the clay holds heat differently, more gently. It forgives you.
3. 3

   Build the refogado

   Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the remaining azeite and the sliced onions. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, scraping up the browned bits from the lamb. This is the foundation. The onions should turn soft and golden, almost melting into the oil, about 15 minutes. Add the smashed garlic and coentros stems in the last 2 minutes. Stir in both paprikas and let them bloom in the fat for 30 seconds. The kitchen should smell like Alentejo.

   Não tenhas pressa. Don't rush. The refogado is everything. Every grandmother I've documented across Portugal says the same thing: the onion must practically dissolve before you add anything else.
4. 4

   Braise the lamb

   Return the lamb and any accumulated juices to the pot. Pour in the white wine and let it bubble for a minute, then add the water and bay leaves. The liquid should come about two-thirds up the meat. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook until the lamb is falling-off-the-bone tender, about 2 hours. Check occasionally and add a splash of water if needed. The broth should be rich and flavorful, reduced but not dry.

5. 5

   Finish the broth

   When the lamb is tender, taste the broth and adjust the seasoning. It should be bold. Add the white wine vinegar and stir. This brightness is essential. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Stir in most of the coentros leaves, reserving some for garnish.

6. 6

   Prepare the bread

   Place thick slices of day-old bread in the bottom of each deep bowl. The bread must be sturdy, with structure. Fresh bread dissolves into nothing. Day-old bread drinks the broth and holds its shape while becoming saturated with flavor. This is why the dish is called ensopado. The bread does the heavy lifting.

7. 7

   Serve the ensopado

   Ladle the hot stew directly over the bread, making sure each bowl gets plenty of lamb, onions, and broth. The bread should soak immediately, the edges softening while the center holds. Scatter the remaining coentros over top. Serve immediately with good wine and nowhere to be. This is a Sunday dish. This is an Easter dish. This is the kind of cooking that makes people remember why they came home.

   Some families in Alentejo add a poached egg on top. Others add sliced chouriço to the braise. Avó Leonor kept it simple. The lamb should be the star.

Chef Tips

• •The lamb must be bone-in. The bones give body to the broth. Boneless lamb makes a fine stew but not a proper ensopado.
• •Use pão alentejano if you can find it, a dense, crusty bread with a tight crumb. If not, any sturdy country bread works. Avoid anything too airy or soft. Ciabatta will fail you here.
• •The broth should be rich but not thick. You want enough liquid for the bread to truly soak. If it reduces too much during braising, add more water. The bread needs something to drink.
• •Some traditional recipes add a splash of vinegar at the end. It brightens everything. Don't skip it. That acidity cuts through the richness and makes you want another bite.
• •In Alentejo, this is often made with young spring lamb around Easter. If you can find it, the flavor is more delicate. Regular lamb works beautifully too, just with deeper, more robust flavor.

Advance Preparation

• •The stew can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. The flavors deepen overnight. Reheat gently before serving.
• •The bread must be placed in bowls and the stew ladled over just before serving. Never assemble ahead. The bread needs to soak in front of you.
• •Day-old bread is essential. If your bread is too fresh, slice it and leave it uncovered overnight to dry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 330g)