
Chef Isabel
Asadillo Manchego
Asadillo Manchego is La Mancha's roasted pepper salad: red peppers, tomato, olive oil, garlic, and cumin, pounded plainly and served with egg, warm or cold.
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Empedrat is Catalan: white beans and shredded salt cod dressed with tomato, pepper, onion, black olives, and good oil, then left to rest until the salad tastes joined instead of mixed.
Empedrat is Catalan, a cold salad of mongetes, white beans, and bacallà, salt cod, with tomato, pepper, onion, olives, and often hard-boiled egg. Its name comes from empedrat, cobbled, because the beans sit like little stones through the bowl. This is not a side salad pretending to be lunch. It is lunch.
The method that decides it is not cooking, but desalting and resting. The cod must be mild enough to eat in shreds, still firm and sea-tasting, never harsh with salt. Then the dressed salad needs at least an hour so the beans drink in the oil, vinegar, tomato juice, and cod. Serve it too soon and every ingredient stands apart, like strangers at a table.
If you're far from Catalonia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use good cooked cannellini beans if you can't find mongetes del ganxet, and buy desalted salt cod if your fishmonger sells it. If you cannot find salt cod at all, bonito del norte in olive oil makes a good Catalan-style bean salad, but it is no longer empedrat de bacallà. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and give it its rest. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Empedrat belongs to Catalonia's cold larder cooking, where cooked white beans, preserved fish, olives, and market vegetables become a full meal without lighting the stove. The bacallà, salt cod, reflects the old inland value of preserved fish, carried and stored long before fresh fish could reach every household. Its close cousin is esqueixada, another Catalan dish of shredded salt cod with tomato, pepper, onion, and olives, but empedrat is made heavier and more sustaining with beans.
Quantity
250g
skin and bones removed, shredded by hand
Quantity
500g
drained and rinsed gently
Quantity
250g
diced
Quantity
120g
diced small
Quantity
80g
diced small
Quantity
80g
finely diced
Quantity
80g
Quantity
2
Quantity
75ml
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
only if needed
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| desalted salt codskin and bones removed, shredded by hand | 250g |
| cooked white beans, preferably mongetes del ganxet or cannellinidrained and rinsed gently | 500g |
| ripe tomatoesdiced | 250g |
| red bell pepperdiced small | 120g |
| green bell pepperdiced small | 80g |
| sweet onion or spring onionfinely diced | 80g |
| black olives, preferably arbequina or Aragón olives | 80g |
| large eggs | 2 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 75ml |
| vinagre de Jerez or good white wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt (optional) | only if needed |
| black pepper | to taste |
Taste a small shred of the desalted cod before you begin. It should taste seasoned and clean, not aggressively salty. If it still bites hard with salt, soak it in cold water for another two to four hours, changing the water once. Drain well, pat dry, and pull it apart with your fingers into rough shreds, esqueixat, torn by hand.
Put the eggs in a small pan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Simmer 10 minutes, then cool under cold water, peel, and cut into quarters. Keep them aside until serving so the yolks stay clean and the salad does not turn cloudy.
Dice the tomatoes, red pepper, green pepper, and onion into small, even pieces. If the onion is sharp, soak it in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain well. That little rinse costs the dish nothing and keeps the onion from shouting over the cod.
Put the drained beans in a wide bowl with the shredded cod, tomatoes, peppers, onion, olives, olive oil, vinegar, parsley, and a little black pepper. Fold gently with a spoon or your hands. Do not mash the beans. Taste before salting, because the cod and olives may have done the work already.
Cover and let the empedrat rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, then bring it back toward cool room temperature for 10 minutes before serving. This rest is the step that makes the dish: the beans take in the dressing and the salt cod softens into the oil. Serve with the egg quarters laid over the top and a last thread of olive oil.
1 serving (about 335g)
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