
Chef Klaus
Berliner Kartoffelsalat
The capital's creamy potato salad, built on warm waxy potatoes that drink the dressing before mayonnaise binds the bowl, with pickle, onion, and egg doing the sharpening.
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Berlin boils its Eisbein, it doesn't roast it. The knuckle goes gently under the simmer until the rind softens, the bone loosens, and the pea puree catches the liquor.
Eisbein is Berlin food first: cured pork knuckle, yellow pea puree, sauerkraut, mustard on the side. It belongs to the cold months and the city Kneipe table, the plate you set down when the larder is doing its work: salted pork, dried peas, fermented cabbage. Weggeworfen wird nichts, the bone and rind are not scraps here. They are the dish.
The argument starts at the regional line. Berlin and Brandenburg simmer the cured knuckle until the meat loosens and the rind turns soft. In Bavaria and Franconia they want Schweinshaxe roasted, blistered, and crisp. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This is not the beer-tent roast. Das ist kein Bierzelt.
The one technique is the heat. Keep the pot below a hard boil, just a quiet trembling simmer, because cured pork tightens fast when it is bullied. Boil it hard and the meat goes stringy, the rind splits, and the broth turns cloudy. Cook it gently and the collagen melts into the liquor, the bone gives, and the meat stays juicy enough to pull apart with a spoon.
Salt last. The Eisbein brings plenty from the cure, the kraut has its own, and the peas drink more than you think. Taste before you season. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Eisbein became strongly associated with Berlin in the nineteenth century, when inexpensive pork knuckles, cured for keeping, were standard city tavern food served with dried peas and sauerkraut. The word Eisbein is often linked to the cleaned shin bone once used for skate runners in northern Europe, though the kitchen meaning settled firmly on the pork knuckle. Its regional split is still sharp: Berlin serves the cured knuckle boiled with soft rind, while southern German Schweinshaxe is usually roasted for crackling.
Quantity
2
about 1.2kg each
Quantity
2
halved
Quantity
2
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 small
washed and chopped
Quantity
1 small piece
chopped
Quantity
3
Quantity
8
Quantity
6
lightly crushed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
300g
rinsed
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
30g
Quantity
600ml
plus more as needed
Quantity
500g
drained but not rinsed
Quantity
1
grated
Quantity
1
sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
only if needed
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cured pork knuckles (Eisbein)about 1.2kg each | 2 |
| onionshalved | 2 |
| carrotsroughly chopped | 2 |
| leekwashed and chopped | 1 small |
| celeriacchopped | 1 small piece |
| bay leaves | 3 |
| black peppercorns | 8 |
| juniper berrieslightly crushed | 6 |
| dried marjoram | 1 teaspoon |
| dried yellow split peasrinsed | 300g |
| small onionfinely chopped | 1 |
| butter or pork fat | 30g |
| pork cooking liquorplus more as needed | 600ml |
| sauerkrautdrained but not rinsed | 500g |
| tart applegrated | 1 |
| small onionsliced | 1 |
| pork fat or butter | 1 tablespoon |
| caraway seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| dry white wine or pork cooking liquor | 150ml |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| salt | only if needed |
| German mustard | to serve |
Rinse the cured pork knuckles under cold water and sit them in a large pot. If your butcher's cure is very salty, soak them in cold water for 30 minutes first, then drain. You are controlling the salt before the cooking starts, because once the broth reduces, the cure only gets louder.
Cover the knuckles with cold water by 3cm, then add the halved onions, carrots, leek, celeriac, 2 bay leaves, peppercorns, juniper, and marjoram. Bring the pot up slowly, because cold water warms the cured meat evenly and draws flavour into the broth instead of sealing it on the surface.
Skim the surface, lower the heat, and keep the pot at a quiet simmer for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, until the meat loosens from the bone and a small knife slides through the rind without force. Do not boil it hard. Hard boiling tightens cured pork, bursts the skin, and turns the cooking liquor cloudy; a trembling pot melts the collagen and keeps the meat soft.
While the Eisbein cooks, soften the finely chopped onion in 30g butter or pork fat until sweet but not brown. Stir in the rinsed yellow split peas and 600ml of the pork cooking liquor, then simmer until the peas collapse, 45 to 60 minutes. Use the pork liquor because it carries the bone, rind, and cure into the puree. Weggeworfen wird nichts.
Mash or blend the peas to a thick, spoonable puree, loosening with more cooking liquor as needed. Keep it softer than mashed potatoes, because it firms as it stands. Taste before adding salt; the liquor has already done half the seasoning.
Sweat the sliced onion in pork fat or butter, then add the sauerkraut, grated apple, 1 bay leaf, caraway, and white wine or pork cooking liquor. Cover and cook gently for 30 to 40 minutes. Do not rinse the kraut. Its acidity is why it stands up to the pork, and the apple rounds the sharp edge without turning it sweet.
Lift the Eisbein from the broth and let it rest 10 minutes so the juices settle in the meat instead of running out on the board. Spoon pea puree onto warm plates, set the knuckle beside it, and pile sauerkraut where it can cut the fat. Finish with black pepper and mustard. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.
1 serving (about 750g)
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