Dashimaki Tamago (出汁巻き玉子, dashi-rolled omelet)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Makiyakinabe rectangular omelet pan, or a small nonstick skillet
• •Chopsticks or fork for mixing
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Folded paper towel for oiling
• •Bamboo sushi mat, or a clean kitchen towel

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the dashi

   Stir the cooled dashi, usukuchi shōyu, mirin, salt, and sugar if using until the salt dissolves. Taste it before the eggs go in. It should be lightly seasoned but clear, because the eggs will soften every edge.

   Use real dashi here. Powder makes the egg taste flat and salty, and this dish has nowhere for that to hide.
2. 2

   Mix the eggs

   Break the eggs into a bowl and cut through them with chopsticks or a fork until the whites loosen, but don't beat in air. Stir in the seasoned dashi, then strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Straining removes stubborn egg white so the finished roll sets evenly and slices cleanly.

3. 3

   Heat the pan

   Warm a makiyakinabe, the rectangular omelet pan, over medium heat and wipe it with a thin film of oil. A small nonstick skillet will work, though the slices won't be as square. Touch in a drop of egg mixture: it should sizzle softly and set at once without browning.

   The pan is ready when it sets egg quickly but doesn't color it. Browning brings a fried taste, and dashimaki wants tenderness.
4. 4

   Roll the first layer

   Pour in just enough egg mixture to cover the pan in a thin sheet. Tilt the pan so it reaches the corners. When the underside is set and the top is still glossy, roll it toward you in two or three folds. That slightly wet surface is what joins the layers, so don't wait until it dries.

5. 5

   Build the roll

   Push the roll to the far end of the pan, wipe the empty surface with oil, and pour in another thin layer. Lift the roll so the new egg runs underneath it, then roll again toward you while the top is still glossy. Repeat until all the egg is used, adjusting the heat down if you see browning.

   Thin layers cook before they toughen. Thick layers make a heavy center and tear when rolled.
6. 6

   Shape and rest

   Slide the omelet onto a bamboo sushi mat or a clean towel and press it gently into a neat bar while it's still warm. Rest it for two minutes. The brief rest lets the layers settle, so the knife shows their work instead of dragging them apart.

7. 7

   Slice and serve

   Cut into thick slices with a clean, damp knife. Set three slices slightly leaning against one another, with grated daikon to the side and a few drops of soy sauce on the daikon. Serve warm or at room temperature, while the egg is still tender.

Chef Tips

• •Use fresh eggs with firm yolks and thick whites. A plain egg dish quietly announces the quality of the egg, so start there.
• •Cool the dashi before mixing it into the eggs. Warm dashi starts setting the egg in the bowl, and then the pan can no longer give you even layers.
• •Keep an oiled folded paper towel beside the stove and wipe the pan between layers. You need a film, not a puddle. Too much oil leaves greasy streaks in the roll.
• •If the egg tears, keep going. The next layer will wrap the mistake inside, which is one of the kinder truths of this dish.
• •For a meatless table, use konbu and dried shiitake dashi. It changes the fragrance, but it is honmono in the temple-kitchen line, not a compromise.

Advance Preparation

• •Dashi can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Chill it before mixing with the eggs.
• •Dashimaki tamago is best the day it is made, warm or at room temperature. Leftovers keep one day refrigerated, wrapped tightly, but the texture firms as it chills.
• •For bento, cool the roll completely before packing so condensation doesn't make the egg weep.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 130g)